im lookin into getting a new roof and would like the low down on these crazy shingles.i hear dementional,archetichual,3 tab,25 year,30 year 50 year.what is the difference and what's making that 30 or 50 year one so much better?also in your opinion for shingles ..what would be the mack daddy roof to get?
3tab are the cheapest variety of shingles. You can easily tear them with your hands, break them by dropping them, etc. Dimensional/architectural shingles are laminated multi layer shingles. They are much stronger then 3tab, but more costly. As far as 30,40,50 year.. i would ignore the 50 year shingles and go with a 30 or 40 year. And i sure wouldn't use 3tabs.
Hellrazor gave you the 30 second speech which was very good. However, there are a couple of things I will add. Do not put all 3 tabs in the same catagory. Shingles are manufactured by weight. The heavier the shingle, the more it costs. For instance a wind shingle made for 125 mile an hour wind is a three tab, very thick, 5 bundles to a square (100 sq ft) and cost about $80.00 a square. Dimensional and Architecturial shingles are basically the same. Arch shingles are an abbrivation for Arch 80 asphalt shingles which is a brand name. Dimensional shingles are about the same shingle made by various shingle companies. Again the weight per square comes into effect. A 30 year shingle weights less then a 40 year shingle and so on. Basically, no shingle will last over 35 years no matter what they claim. So what shingles is best for you ? It comes down to what you personally like. I would recommand a 30 or 35 year dimensional shingle. Just got done putting new shingles on 8 buildings at my place. Two were dimensional, 4 were 50 year 3 tab (due to the wind) one was T-Locks, and one was metal. I chose the shingles to match the uniqueness of the buildings. Good Luck
Well you could put a metal roof on and be done with it . ED
In MY opinion........ 3-tabs are fine as a basic shingle, the least expensive available. If you use one of the major brands, you should expect to get their advertised 20 year life although other factors such as climate might affect them negatively. And the lighter colors seem to last longer, especially white. If you want good looks as well as a mack daddy type performance, the dimensional/laminated/architechural lines are great. They run in cost anywhere from 50% more to 600% more for the shingles than 3-tabs, and the labor goes up as you progress from one to the next better version. As for the warrantees...only time will tell, but I personally don't believe any asphalt shingle will last for 50 years or more. They might still be doing the basic job of shedding water, but I'm sure they will be cracked and deteriorated in other ways by then. I believe they can offer such extreme warrantees due to the fact that the average homeowner only lives in a particular house for 6-8 years {or whatever it is at the moment}, and so...even with a transferable warranty, the manufacturer will almost never have to deal with a 40-60 year old roof in which the shingles failed. This is not to slam the manufacturers, who make great products, just being realistic about how asphalt ages over the years. Most people will go for a more expensive shingle because of looks, if they can afford to.
very good info given, however, i don't agree with the 50 year shingles wont last statement. they may look like crap after a while, but they will last longer then a 30 year arch. not sure which brands you have around you, i personally deal with certainteed and GAF for the main part. This post has been edited. Derogative and or negative remarks, comments, opinions, claims and or statements made, in reference to and or pertaining to any products, parts and/or services rendered by manufacturers, companies, dealers, agents, sponsors, advertisers, service personal and/or representatives of such will not be tolerated nor allowed. No advertising or solicitation is allowed - This includes items within signature. Doug Aleshire Super Moderator 2
Sure would have been interesting to see what was deleted from your post. As I clearly stated, and state everytime I think I'm offering up an opinion, it is my OPINION that a 50 year shingle, and lifetime shingle, although possibly still shedding water, will be badly cracked as well as showing other signs of deterioration after about 30 years. I don't base this on anything I have against the manufacturers or installers or any other person or entity. It's based on years and years of oberving how asphalt degrades in the elements. The bottom line is: Roofs are not soley determined to be in good and/or in servicable condition because they are currently leak-free. EVERYONE from Roofers to Insurance adjusters, to Home inspectors to home owners have an idea of what consitutes a roof which needs replacing. It generally does not include shingled roofs which are badly cracked all over. I don't make the rules, I just have to fuction within the confines of what has come to be the generaly accepted standards of the industry. Lastly, when I'm dealing with homeowners, they get an honest asessment of what their roof is all about. Even with deterioration, the roof may very well provide additional years of service. When a house changes hands, the approach is much different. The prospectuve buyers want assurance that the roof meets some kind of standard. There's no point in placing oneself in the line of fire by stating: Awe don't worry about the cracking, these are 50 year shingles!!!! Have already run accross MANY dimensional shingled roofs which are cracking badly after 10-15 years. Time will tell how these newer shingles turn out. Perhaps they've come up with a miracle asphalt which refuses to degrade.
post script.. Basically, most major brands are available...most everywhere in the states. Some color variations, some particular styles, may not be. We ALL use the same stuff. Some just use it differently. And, as PERMATEK and WOODRUF proved, many repeat, verbatum, the warranty claims attributed to the products. Here, we ALWAYS qualify the claims with a bit of real world common sense. and, much of good roofing is all about common sense.
Tags: deal, shingles, will last, year shingle, year shingles, badly cracked, common sense, deal with, last longer, mack daddy
Hi - Our deck is almost 6-years old, and the contractor who built it suggested we use Trex as a cost alternative. Since that time (and two claims which were denied to us by Trex) the company has discontinued the color (Natural) we have because the mold was too visible. Maybe it's the vintage we have, but it is truly awful stuff, in our opinion, and we are very unhappy with the the product and the company that puts it out. We would like to know if anyone has any experience with painting or staining Trex. I will do it in a heartbeat if it's worth the trouble just to make it look a little nicer. Thanks - Dave
Hi, Go to this page, it's from Trex on painting or staining their product: http://www.trex.com/technicalinfo/painting.aspx
Can't the mold/mildew be washed off? I've never stained/painted any trex but I'm sure a sastifactory job can be had. The only downside would be it would need recoating and certain intervals to keep it looking nice. Whenever I have any questions about painting a substrate I've never painted before I ask the paint rep at the store - a real paint store, not dept. They should be able to advise you as to the best coatings for both your deck and desired result.
Thanks very much for the info - Dave
Hi, Marksdr - The mold can be washed off, yes, but the Trex itself is just a gawd-awful color. The mold is better since I pulled up all the boards and re-gapped them. Now, the deck can drain off water. According to Trex, the contractor did not install the boards correctly (he gapped at 3/16, they specified 1/4). In any case, after a coupled of years, some of the boards had swelled so much that they were pushing against each other and lifting. Whenever I hear someone is putting in a deck, my immediate response is Don't use Trex if you know what's good for you. Thanks - Dave
Dave, I've been dealing with Trex warranty issues for the past 3 or 4 years. When was the last time you talked to Trex about replacing the decking? Yes, Natural had a HUGE problem with spotting. It's not mold -- it's tannin acid that is causing the spots to appear. That color has long since been discontinued, for just that reason. Since your deck is Natural, a 3/16 gap was fine when it was installed. The spacers they gave us 5 years ago gave us the choice between 1/8 and 3/16. The ones we have now are either 1/4 of 3/8. PM me -- I'll put you in touch with a rep at Trex and you WILL get the decking replaced.
Hi, Lefty - Thanks for the offer, but really I'm not expecting one bit of help from the people at Trex. The last time we contacted Trex (the second time) was October 2006. This was regarding the swelling of the boards. The deck wasn't draining, and all the gaps had closed. I looked at the letter I sent to Trex after contacting the guy who put it in. He told me he gapped it at 3/16th of an inch, and Trex told me the guy did it wrong, and they were not going to help me. So, at the beginning of last summer, thinking that because the deck wasn't draining it was contributing to the mold problem, I pulled up all the boards and laid them back down, with a 1/4-inch gap. This was when I found out the color had been discontinued, because I needed more boards. Some were finally found about an hour from me at a lumber yard (actually Trex DID help me find them, so they actually did something for me). By the way, the stuff still looks like crap, that's why I'm thinking about staining it. Do you need my email address, or can you put me in touch with Trex through this forum? Thanks again - Dave
Paint tends not to hold up well on horizontal surfaces. Deck stains and sealants tend to be preferred. As I recall past discussions, Cabot's and Sikkens' were most favored here.
I kind of knew ahead of time it would have to be a solid stain, but asking about paint was so I didn't limit anything. Also, I didn't think a semi-transparent stain would work in this case, because we are trying to cover up the real ugliness of the Trex. Thanks.
Dave, I PM'ed you. Scroll to the VERY TOP of the forum and on the right side you'll see Welcome dbruno. Right under that you will see that you have one unread Private Msg. Click on that and you'll be able to read it. Lefty
Originally Posted by lefty Dave, I PM'ed you. Scroll to the VERY TOP of the forum and on the right side you'll see Welcome dbruno. Right under that you will see that you have one unread Private Msg. Click on that and you'll be able to read it. Lefty Could you please share the same information with me. Trex sent someone out who took pictures and measurements for over an hour months ago -- no word since. Thank you
jmomrb, Welcome to DoItYourelf.com and the Deck forum. If somebody came out and measured and got pictures of your deck you should have a Trex claim number (TX-...) Have that with you and call Trex at 1-800-BUY-TREX (289-8739). Ask to check the status of your claim. I have had Trex deny a couple initially for whatever reason. I just had to explain the details they were unclear about and the claims got approved. I have yet to have one totally denied.
Thanks, Lefty, for the other contact at Trex. I got a quick email from her, telling me she would pass it along to Customer Service. But, I'm not expecting anything from them, and will probably go ahead with staining the deck. I am worried however, that if I stain the deck and then Trex decides to come out (ha ha), absolutely nothing would happen, because now I've changed the material. Dave
Originally Posted by lefty jmomrb, Welcome to DoItYourelf.com and the Deck forum. If somebody came out and measured and got pictures of your deck you should have a Trex claim number (TX-...) Have that with you and call Trex at 1-800-BUY-TREX (289-8739). Ask to check the status of your claim. I have had Trex deny a couple initially for whatever reason. I just had to explain the details they were unclear about and the claims got approved. I have yet to have one totally denied. I just installed a brand new deck with trex and the color has faded / stained horribly in just 4 months - installed 6-1-08. Do you have any suggestions. It looks so bad I plan to stain it but am livid that I have to do this so soon after installation when the reason I choose this material was the color lack of maintenance....very ironic. Any advice appreciated. Marshall
mlongtin, Welcome to the forums Marshall. Slow down a minute. Are you complaining about the Trex fading, or about it staining? What color did you install? Trex has spent literally 10's of millions of dollars to show what their product will look like about 12 to 16 weeks after it is installed because they KNOW it will fade. You're retailer (if you installed it yourself) or your contractor (if it was installed by a pro) should have made you aware of that, and should have sold it based on the color it BECOMES, NOT based upon what it looks like when initially installed. STAINING is a whole other issue, and I'm in the middle of dealing with several of the decks that I have installed where the customer is complaining about it staining. If that's is your complaint, PM me. (Click on my name and send Lefty a Personal Message.) Then we can exchange e-mails and I'll see if I can get you hooked up with a Trex rep. in the Seattle area.
Hi, Lefty and Everyone Else - Once again, Lefty, I say many thanks for trying to help me. The first rep you put me in contact with left the company shortly before I sent her an email (I think we discussed this privately). The second rep was very helpful, at first, saying she would have the Warranty Dept. review my situation. When no response came after a couple of months, I sent another email to the rep, who said she couldn't understand why they hadn't contacted me, and told me she would take care of it right away. She did, but what came in her next email was another Customer-Concern Packet, and was basically the same old stuff that I had filled out the previous two times I sent a complaint in, but this time it was much more in detail. I threw it in the email trash bin. I'm done with them. I never did get around to staining the deck, but washed it a couple of times and lived with it. I did get a chance to stain a spare piece, and it really didn't look so hot, but admittedly I did not give it a second coat. Maybe next summer. But, to everyone looking to use Trex, I still stand by my original phrase: Don't use Trex if you know what's good for you. Dave
Dave and Marshall, Trex may or may not be stainable, depending on what you use for stain. A transparent stain won't work. Trex is 50% plastic, and plastic doesn't take stain. A solid stain may or may not work, again because of Trex being 50% plastic. Paint will cover it, because paint basically sticks to the surface with very little penetration into the material that you are putting it on. Dealing with Trex has become increasingly difficult over the past 6 months to a year. I've noticed a lot of empolyee turnover with them.
A latex solid stain [especially if emulsa bond is added] should adhere fine to the Trex...... but once you start applying a coating - you'll need to repaint as it wears away from traffic or weather.
I use a high concentration of bleach (direct out of the Clorox jug) and a 'scrub brush on a stick'. After trying a series of other deck cleaners this was the most effect and cheapest. I have to do this at least twice a year or it looks like a leopard. We also have some boards that are just discolored since the beginning and look different than the rest - I have no solution for that issue. I echo all the comments above about on how unsatisfactory the material is and how ironic the no maintenance claims have been. Very unhappy. If any one has more on best staining options please contribute. BTW we have a (no) gap issue since the installer was used to wood shrinking. It seems that the only option pull them up. If we take these darn boards off I am not putting them back I will use wood. Is there anything cleaver that could be *safely* done with a saw or is that just crazy?
dgorman, Welcome to the forums. Trex has had problems for several years, and the spotting that you are talking about was one of their first. That was most common on their Natural color, which has long since been discontinued. I have seen Trex that has been painted and it seems to be holding up fairly well, without the spotting problems, and it seems to eliminte the 'disintegration' issue as well. The lack of a gap could lead to other problems -- mainly disintegration of the deck boards. The saw kerf idea would work as far as giving you the gap, but doing it with a Skil saw will make an ugly mess. I doubt that you can get a REALLY straight line with a Skil saw. I can occasionally, but I go through about 150 blades a year and a Skil saw every 3 or 4 years.
I know this thread is a little old, but I thought I'd chime in here. I had a 20 x 24 Trex deck installed on my newly built house 11 years ago. Like everyone else is saying, it's a mess with the horrid, black spots. (I think it was the Natural color.) I've tried everything...Deck Cleaner, Corte-Clean, power washing and straight bleach. Nothing gets rid of the spots. There is absolutely no gap between boards now, and I'm sure that's contributed to the problem. Water just stands in some spots. Ultimately I know I'll have to replace it, but if I could get it to last a few more years with looking like total crap, I'd like to do that. Since these discussions, has anyone actually tried staining their decks? Thanks. Jane
Hi - I know this helps very little, but it does make me feel better that I am not the only one having problems with Trex. I haven't done anything with my deck in a year, but now it's time to at least clean it, as it really looks pretty lousy. My hope was to replace the Trex with something else, but now with two kids in college I don't think I can handle the expense. I would still be interested in hearing from anyone who has painted or stained their Trex deck with even moderate success. Dave
I've got the same moldy spots on my deck. The first year it was not visible although the color did fade a bit. I used Cayenne for my color choice. The second year the deck was covered in black spots. I used a deck wash (essentially bleach water) and this did a great job of eliminating the spots. Unfortunately it also faded the color drastically. The deck looked decent for the rest of that year but the following year, of course, the spots returned. No surprise there. I know gapping isn't an issue as I used their proprietary invisible clips that gap it correctly. Not willing to fade my deck more, I just let the mess be. The color of the deck is still fading but the deck railing and balusters are essentially still original color. That is one helluva look! Really sad after being brainwashed that these decks were basically everlasting with little maintenance. Very pricey, too. Still beats getting splinters off cedar, though.
I just joined do it yourself. I am fasciated at the comments regarding the Trex product. We installed Trex (natural) almost 13 years ago to our back deck including the balisters and railings. We have had a terrible time trying to keep it clean with constant black spotting and mold problems. I have cleaned it twice a summer with deck cleaners and finally had to resort to straight bleach to get it to look 70% better. We have been very unhappy with the product. Our contractor used the metal brackets Trex sold to place the boards. 98% of the boards are swollen tight to each other, some buckled and the deck holds water on the top of the surface. Several years later we added a gazebo with a bridge that connects it to the main deck. We purchased what a Trex rep. said was the color we had used. It was installed on the 25 ft bridge and was a much darker color of grey or natural. Trex said it would fade to match the natural we had on the main deck. It has been down for at least 10 years and is still the dark grey color it was the day they laid it. We are elderly and find this to be a sad situation. We are not able to afford to replace the deck and are afraid to paint it fearing it will look even worse than the ugly black spotting. Can you please offer any suggestions for us. We were so pleased to choose Trex as we needed a maintenance free product and we thought that's what we purchased in selecting Trex. My husband is disabled and it leaves the horrible cleaning attempts to me and I am weary with it. Thank you so much for any help you can suggest.
Hi, dgorman - I'm responding to your post at this time because I just saw that a new post came on the thread about Trex. You wondered how ironic the no-maintenance claims have been. Not sure if I posted this in my original, but Trex Customer Service is probably the worst I've ever dealt with. Unlike most other companies that sell this type of product, getting a rep from Trex to come and look at a problem must be like moving heaven and earth. I gave up after two tries: the first claim, one I submitted because of the spots from mold and tannin bleeds, they sent me a special cleaning kit. The second claim, the one for the boards swelling and trapping the water, they blamed the contractor for gapping the boards at 3/16 instead of 1/4, and the claim was denied. I gave up after that.
Hi, Sweetshot - Just saw your post and unfortunately all I can tell you is I feel your pain. I have yet to try staining or painting my Trex, because the process will be a long one that will probably require at least 3-4 days in a row with no rain - a good cleaning followed by a drying-out period, then staining and hoping for a rain-day or two after that. I may try=this summer, but I live in the northeast, so getting a number of dry days in a row is hit or miss.
Sweetshot, Welcome to the forums. You are probably not going to have very much success getting Trex to do much about your deck. They went through a period several years ago where they were providing the material along with paying for the labor, fasteners and disposal of defective decking. but that was done because of a class action suit filed against them, and it nearly bankrupted them. painting it may be an option, but like dbruno said, wait for the weather to permit. It needs to dry thoroughly before you start (at least a couple of weeks of warm, dry weather) and stay dry for several days after you finish. When your deck was installed (around 2000), the gapping that Trex recommended was 3/16 -- plus or minus depending on the temp. when it was installed. There were two spacers that Trex provided us with at that time. One was 1/8 and 3/16 and the other was 3/16 and 1/4. Since then they have come to realize that it needs more gap. The spacers we get now are larger (1/4 and up.)
Several friends/acquaintences who make their living building decks have vowed never to use Trex again. Same problems as posted here, if not worse. Unhappy clients and poor product performance are never good for a small-time contractor trying to eke out a living. TimberTech is a better product (according to my sources in the business), and customer service by the manufacturer is taken seriously the few times it's needed. A few years ago, I was surprised at how lousy the Trex deck looked that I helped install close to 10 years earlier--really shabby-looking. Natural color faded out to almost white, and many of the planks were swelled out of shape as well. So much for the 25-year warranty.
Tags: staining, painting, trex, your deck, they were, with Trex, have Trex, should have, that have, about staining, been discontinued, have been, looks like, Natural color
Hello, I have two vehicles insured with Allstate Insurance. However, they are older vehicles and I keep liability only on each vehicle, a car and a truck. If something were to happen to either vehicle(hit a tree), it would be my nickel to replace or not. I called Allstate today to see if they would cover my upcoming vacation rental car fully if possible damages may incur? They said the rental car would be fully and wholly insured through my liability only coverage and I do not need to purchase any additional collision/comprehensive insurance through the rental car company. What?? Can someone explain why this would be? Are they correct? I would understand completely if I carried full comprehensive/collision on my own vehicles, yes, this coverage would carry over to any and all rental cars I may drive. But this is not the case for me. My personal vehicle have liability coverage only. How can I make sure they are telling me the correct information here?
You are liable to the rental car company. The cars you are renting are not your own, they are other people's property. Damage to other people's property is liability. Just like if you borrowed someone else's car. Just be sure the property damage limits of your policy is enough to cover any damages. If that is the way your agent described it, you can count on it being the case. For other people reading this...not all companies do it this way. It is best to discuss this with your agent before proceeding.
Thank you Whitenack. I think I understand. Even though I am driving, this rental car is another person's property and would be covered under my liability coverage. Does this mean, if the rental car were destroyed, they would 'make whole' to the rental car company? How much would I be responsible for? At least? the deductible under my liability coverage which shows $250.00? Sorry but just trying to figure out the worst scenario with the best outcome. I can put full comprehensive/collision on one of my vehicles here at home for 30 days(minimum time) for about $27.00 with a $500.00 deductible per my agent if I decide. She insists that I do not need this to cover the rental car, however. Under my liability only policy: My property damage shows $50,000 per occurrence. Uninsured Motorists property damage $25,000 per occurrence.
Usually there is no deductible on liability. You would not be responsible for anything, other than having a claim on your record which in time could raise your premiums. Your limits are on the low side. Yes, $50k would probably take care of most vehicles out there, but what if you hit another car? If you are driving around a nice $30k rental car and hit a nice $30k SUV, you are in trouble. Another thing to consider...the rental car company's insurance policy is not terribly expensive. With that, you know without a doubt you are fully covered, and you know that if you have an accident, it won't affect your insurance premiums.
Don't forget many credit card companies will also cover the insurance if you pay for the rental with their card. At least I know some used to. Haven't rented a car in 10 yrs. Another thing....these are fleet vehicles....unless you go way upscale...I doubt any of them would be 30K cars. Of course..theres a lot of other cars out on the road that are way over that.
I would suggest increasing your liability limits substantially for two reasons: 1 They are low compared to the cost you could incur for a claim which would potentially result in significant out of pocket expense to you. 2 Your under and uninsured motorist coverage limits cannot be higher than your liability limits. Simplest to use an example here - I had a patient who got hit and suffered permanent injuries which resulted in, among other things, her having to change jobs. The driver who hit her had minimal coverage which was quickly exhausted. She filed the remainder of the claim against her own company on the underinsured motorist section. Her arbitration settlement was for $280,000 but she was only carrying a $100,000 limit on her liability policy so she literally missed out on $150,000 she could have had were her limits higher. That said, to your original question; yes, your liability coverage would cover everything involved with a rental car claim (as mentioned, not all do this so one should check but you did so).
Thank you everyone for the good information! Thank you all for taking the time here. I understand that my uninsured limits may be to low and I should increase them. I heard recently that many, many people have dropped their vehicle insurance altogether. Many aren't working and just can not afford to pay any amount of their car insurance premiums. Whether I drive my own or a rental, the odds are high that the other party involved may not have any coverage or very little. .....And as well, new garden-variety cars of any kind are running $60,000+ these days. It might be a good idea to up the amounts. I did call Visa and my card(s) would fully insure a rental car per the Visa agent. She did say that they, Visa is supplemental to my main vehicle insurance. My main vehicle insurance would fall in place first as primary and then Visa become second insured and would pick up any addition charges thereafter. Visa would be responsible for the rental car alone and does not include any medical whatsoever for myself or the other driver. She also said I can not purchase the rental's comprehensive coverage in any way or the Visa benefit would be null and void. I recently changed(7/2011) from an 'old line' policy with Allstate to a newer line. My rates were getting higher than I thought they should be at about $1,200 per year. Within this 'old line' policy I was paying for the privilege they could never cancel me(agent said first I'd heard about non-cancel...never thought to ask?) and that kept the rates high. With the 'new line' policy, my rates were cut in half at (less than) $600.00 per year but they could cancel my policy at anytime. I have never had a claim of any kind with my car insurance and thought the new line policy would serve me better. haha! It may be better to purchase insurance direct from the rental car company and as said early, my private insurance would not be involved in anyway. Still pondering.... What would Scooby do? I will get with a local rental company and get particulars of exactly what they charge for insurance, what's involved, how much and what the insurance might cover such as medical for all concerned, etc, etc. Curious about what you all would do under same circumstance? At a later time, I would like to ask about what each line of my auto policy means? I will take a pic and black-out all personal info and add it to a post. Curious about some of the language and what it means. My agent tries to explain it out but not like you folks do here. In this day and age, you never know who is being fully truthful. Reading around on this forum, if info is off, they get the 'Do It Yourself' (((smackdown)))!! Boom! Bam! .....so it is somewhat trustful here.
Tags: rental, insurance, coverage, rental company, liability coverage, line policy, liability only, other people, property damage, vehicle insurance, would responsible, your liability, about what
Anyone have or know where I can go to look at an illustrated parts list for an Onan Generator Model 2.8KVFA 26100K or even just for the engine Model GH-200 Thanks
Unfortunately I don't think Onan permits the free distribution of their parts catalogs on the Web any longer. I looked at several of the sites I normally use and all three say the same thing??? I have several on file and would be glad to share but I do not have the one you need. Maybe someone else owns the one you need and will share it with you. Sorry but good luck, Ron
30Year, the only thing I could recommend is to find a local, larger recreational vehicle dealer in your area and give them a try as most RV's are powered by Onan's and would have access to the info you need. By the way, welcome aboard to DoItYourself.com.
Thanks, I spent hours on the internet looking and came up empty, apparantly if your not a dealer for Onan then your just out of luck. Anyway I just refered my customer to a Service Center for Onan and hopefully they will take care of it for him.
This Onnan site still has downloadable illustrated part manuals in PDF http://www.funroads.com/onanstore/gensetHelp.jhtml;jsessionid=JLM3RCQZYZZWECTFJMXSFEQ Just click on onan manualsthen illustrated manules and pick maybe you'll find the one that you need. GOOD LUCK!!
OPPPPS I was wrong.Saw the word downloadable and went blind to every thing else.
I cant decide on which shower system I want to use. Tile has its grout issues. Fiberglass scratches and discolors. Even a swanstone shower wall and receptor system still has caulked seams like a tiled shower corner would need. Iv seen many linoleum floors which I had to look closely at to determine if it was tile or not. Why not choose a very high quality linoleum for the surround and bend it at the corners to have a truly water proof enclosure down to a swanstone receptor or your tub? Could linoleum be bent at the corner with a small radius? The only tough part would be at the raw edges and dress them up. Any thoughts or ideas?
If you want a truly waterproof shower system, then you need to look into a membrane applied product, like Schluter Kerdi or liquid applied. You are not going to achieve this with linoleum. Linoleum will not work. Have you seen what linoleum or vinyl tile do when moisture gets underneith it? Also, a properly built tile shower will not have issues.
Actually AFAIK linoleum is a specialty product not generally available. I think you mean sheet vinyl for floors.
I'm referring to linoleum as a surround in a shower or bath. On the walls like this.. You could use a cove in the corner and a cap to hide the raw edge. Tile a Shower in Less Than an Hour For Under $30 | eHow.com If the linoleum surround didn't have a seam, how could water get behind it HotinOKC? I found a great deal and bought a kerdi shower kit yet I dont trust myself to become a tile setter over night. Iv spent some time reading and found many horror stories about DIY's screwing up one little step and then needing to rip it out and start over. Maybe a complete swanstone receptor/shower wall kit.. But you still end up with silicone in the corners. But no grout.
You would have seams at the top and bottom of the shower. I don't think the linoleum would withstand the soaps and water of a shower. You bought a kerdi kit and you want to hand linoleum over it? The lino would almost certainly tear being bend into a tight 90 degree corner. I would find a good tile or a fiberglass unit.
Hi GiantScale, The article you are mentioning is a perfect piece of wrong advice I see several problems 1 - Linoleum should not be used vertically 2 - Each hole is a potential entry for moisture / water 3 - :PF:Linoleum should not be installed in bathrooms I'd suggest that you check the recommendations of this manufacturer
I went for a door service call at house full of (apparently) crazy people. (Not that I'm saying you are Giantscale!) They had put peel and stick tile on the walls of the kitchen and yes...on the bathroom walls and in the shower area. It was originally just a tub with painted walls I guess, but they added a hand held shower and wanted a water resistant surface.
That article is nonsense. If you put linoleum on the walls, thats exactly what you will have. It won't look like tile, nor will it perform like tile. When it comes to showers, don't try to reinvent the wheel. There are a lot of proven methods/products out their that work.
Mobile homes used the method. I have an older rental mobile home from 1970 whose shower walls look brand new. I have installed many myself in rentals, and it works. 23 years about, in this. No theory. Actual experience in college rentals for all those years with those same properties, so I have been able to keep track of these installations. I also did a bosses house many years ago. And to this day it looks beautiful. Chose tile/grout looking patterns. I have not had problems in vertical corners. Silicone caulk has worked fine. But you can imbed that white plastic inside corner trim into the silicone caulk and finger off the excess that squirts out. Landlord that I have done work for, for 23 years, who is very handy in his own right, was so impressed by this method, that he did several himself, and trimmed them out with that plastic trim. And they are all holding up and look nice. A few out of the many I have done have had water get trapped at the top-of-tub caulk, and caused the linolemum to pull away a little. But that is like a just a few out of a couple dozen. And as I said, if one goes the extra step and uses that plastic trim with caulk sandwiched behind it, you will not be having that possible problem. A weak spot is if say you have a shower with old fashion 2-handle mixer and it just so happens that if water leaks out of a bad valve that it can wick into the sheetrock and cause water damage of the sheetrock and staining of the linoleum. IF that happens, the choice is to fix the leak and try to prevent it in the future with more caulk at the valvestem, and overlay that headwall again. Or, cut out the area from about 2 inches above the mixer valves on down to the top of the tub and then redo that section of sheetrrock and then overlay only that area with glassboard, and it looks intentional and sharp. The linoleum withstands household cleaners for soapscum and lime. Even blue-can oven cleaner. If say one lasts you say only 10 + years and you notice a little something going on -not too much skin off your nose to simply overlay right over the existing, with new. Just like overlaying a linoleum floor over and existing one. Look at all the abuse a linoleum floor takes and al the mopping with cleaners and water. We ahve rentals that were built in the mid-80's and still have the same linoleum floors and they still look good. Oh. And on one such bathroom I did many eyars ago, I did this for a 1 1/2 story corner bathroom over the tub where the ceiling was low and even came down to 6' 6 at the rear of the tub/shower as the wall curved downward, and I linoleumed the ceiling and everything still looks new in this heavily used college rental! When I installed it, it stuck right to the ceiling without even trying to pull loose.
And you can easily cut the linoleum around windows and trim it out the same way so that it is all quite waterproof. I haven't done these in years now, and have not really priced linoleum lately. But when I was doing these things, it was cheap, and I could do these jobs pretty fast. There was only one house I did that I remeber that something went wrong on the outside wall (the long wall of the tub/shower) and I had to overlay it again with the same tile pattern. No real bnig deal though. Somehow moisture affected the entire felt backing and grayed it out. There was a possibility that this old house's wall was maybe uninsulated and the hot shower water hitting the cold wall caused this -I'll never know, as the house was sold. Outside the house on that wall I remeber I had to do some caulking and the roof in that area had a valley and was suspect, also. But one can look at this in the positive: If say a part of such a system failed due to water damage - at least you get to learn of water damage going on. Where say if plastic is used, you might not find out until some real serious damage has already occured.
ecman51` are you talking about linoleum or are you talking about vinyl self adhesive tile?
Solid sheet vinyl cut out of 6 or 12 foot roll. Definitely not self stick tiles. Yikes. That would never work. On old mobile homes they used to actually wrap it right around the corner sometimes. But that can be a recipe for disaster if it gets punctured. Also, to lay it around 3 sides continous can be risky to keep the pattern right for plumb and level, and along the top of the tub. Much easier to just cut 3 separate pieces and either caulk the corners or imbed that plastic-foam trim stripping into the caulk. It really does look nice. I have done them using like 4 inch tile pattern where there are like those small diamond shapes along with them, that might be teal color. And other 4 inch patterns. And also have done many using the 1 inch tile pattern where they are sort of beige-ish or gray-ish with white 'grout' lines. When I was doing these, I used premium adhesive that never dries out. Never. And I also prime painted the sheetrock first. I think I used oil. I still have some on a test board that has been out in the air all these years, and is still like gum. You use a fine notch trowel and quickly apply it nicely. One of the ideas of oil prime painting is to cut down on the amount of adhesive that the sheetrock would wick. This stops any wicking, except for what goes into the felt backing. Then set the linoleum into it and work it out all directions from the middle with a damp hand and/or rag. Then you do not keep playing around with that procedure because you do not want to start gathering the adhesive. If bubbles start forming right after you are done - leave them. The linoleum will pull back to the wall, probably by the next day. They do indeed disappear. In theory, it is best to let the adhesive tack up some before imbedding the linoleum, so that more gases are released prior to trapping those gases. But regardless, there is enough breathability that the bubbles do disappear and lay flat, even if you are impatient and lay the linoleum about right after you fine-notch trowel the adhesive. You can get the most enormous bubbles if, even on linoleum floor overlays. That really traps the gases. You can get huge blisters - but they too will disappear. These make take several days to disappear, but they do disappear, like magic.
I know the how-to process. My question was related with the material, because in your message you are using the word linoleum and the process and results you described are not possible using linoleum. Only if you use vinyl or plastic. And this is a very important info for our DIY users, in order to avoid confussions This is the info from the manufacturer Although some people still call all sheet floors linoleum, genuine linoleum is quite different from vinyl floors. Vinyl floors are composed of synthetic materials such as polyvinyl chloride and urethane, while genuine linoleum is made from natural components. How is Armstrong genuine linoleum made? The main ingredient of genuine linoleum is linseed oil. (In Latin, linum is the word for linseed, which comes from the flax plant, and oleum means oil.). The oil is boiled, mixed with melted resins, and combined with powdered cork, wood flour, resins, ground limestone and other natural materials. Mineral pigments provide the color. This mixture is formed into a durable sheet by applying heat and pressure I hope this helps
Patricia, you are spitting in the wind. If you look at the third post in you will see I said the same thing but was ignored. I suspect none of the posters are old enough to have ever used linoleum. If they had they would know the difference. {LOL}
I didn't even think they had linoleum anymore. I presumed by using the word linoleum that everyone knew that it is the modern vinyl sheetgoods. Sorry if this caused any confusion. And I was not posting a how-to in trying to instruct a moderator on how-to applications,. This was intended for any interested party including the OP.
My problem with any how-to is if the author does not even know the correct name for the material he is writing about what else doesn't he know. He really lost me with the suggestion to use a spray adhesive. Didn't see the material list he referred to but while I can think of some adhesives that might work I don't have a clue about a spray adhesive. Years ago on one of the Bob Newhart sit-coms, the one where he owned an inn, he was a book author. As I recall his characters book were based on research only not on having actually ever done anything he wrote about. I saw this how-to and some other articles I have read as coming from the same process.
My home center has spray adhesives in a couple of their departments. I use them for various applications - but would never trust them to permanently bond something like what we are talking about. I've had to use it a lot in trying to readhere duct tape to ducts (before the health inspector does a reinspection), and the duct tape keeps coming off the ducts anyway. Duct tape sticks to everything it seems, except certain ducts. Actually, it is foil-faced ductboard, which is wrapped around the metal ducts, and duct tape was used to bind it. And it pops loose and the spray adhesive has been a quick fix for me, but does not last.
Ecman As I stated in my first post real linoleum floors exist today and they are a good (and green) choice because linoleum is a natural material I used linoleum in several projects and, as ray confirms, it is not even close with a vinyl tile ARMSTRONG LINOLEUM I clarified the issue in your post, because you edited your post as how to ray2047 You are right, names, materials, and the are mixed up. This is why, as moderator, is my job to clarify these issues. If, in a future, someone reads the thread, the subject of this post will be clear
Hello all, My soon to be wife and I went to Lowes and had them modeled up our new kitchen. Complete gut, move and remodel. We are on a tight budget and didnt want to spend to much, thats why we picked Shenandoah. They were cheaper then the rest and still had great qualitys we were looking for. Cabinets for the whole kitchen will be $4800. Thats including the 20% manufacter discount. My question to you is how do you rate Shenandoah Cabinet's(if you have them) have they held up over time? Do the stand a chance against children? Comments are welcome Thanks Russ
A discussion was over here a while back. Are they good Shenandoah Cabinets good quality? - DIY Chatroom - DIY Home Improvement Forum As with anything, take it with a grain of salt, but some good points were raised. I think many problems with damaged cabinets come from being shipped long distances. We have an American Woodmark factory right here in my town, but they don't supply the cabinets that are sold at the local HD...lol.
Hah nice thanks for the link
Are you brave? The RTA cabinets I've seen (river run) are better built than some of the other lines we sell. I have not yet built any, but the video I saw made it look easy. Plywood sides! Even before I worked in a competing cabinet shop, HD and Lowes scared me.
Well, after reading all of those comments about HD and Lowes and how unhappy some people are. I will be checking out 2 local Cabinet places here in Buffalo. Kitchen World and Kitchen Advantage. Hopefully the price will be somewhere near the price I got at Lowes. Lower would be nicer How do you guys feel about Directbuy? I always see their adds. Are they any good?
And I thought everyone was so business savvy these days? Shop around and compare apples to apples. You know the routine of price, quality, warranty, construction. Can't understand why such questions are still asked.
I did shop around and other cabinets which look the same and have the same consturuction are $3000 more. This came from a specialty place. So im wondering if its just $3000 more just because it is being sold out of a specialty store. The other cabinet was Aristokraft, thats the one thats $3000 more. Same face, same construction, and a shade...a shade darker in color. Such questions are asked because others out there have purchased Shenandoah cabinets and others have purchased Aristokraft cabinets. Through other reviews and comments I will find out which cabinets I should buy. Learn from others right?
It costs about $5,000 to join Direct Buy and then you have to commit to annual membership fee for 10 years. They are high-pressure to join. If on a budget and depending on size of kitchen, you can almost buy an economical new kitchen for $5,000 or less. Do your homework$!$ Don't believe everything you see in TV ads and infomercials.
Originally Posted by twelvepole It costs about $5,000 to join Direct Buy and then you have to commit to annual membership fee for 10 years. Holy! That's alot of money! I guess that would be a write off if you're a contractor/builder or someone with that kind of money to spare.... YIKES!
If you buy from a clearance house, be sure to inspect the construction of the cabinets carefully. Look for real plywood sides, backs, tops, and bottoms. Of course, the face frames and doors should be solid wood. Look for glued joints with nails or screws at strategic points. Stay away from particle board. Backs should have real wood or plywood hanging rails. If you buy from a big box store, your biggest challenge will be to find a knowledgeable person to assist you. Once you overcome that hurdle, sit down with them and discuss at length the options available not only from the standpoint of outward appearance, but also the construction options and materials used. If the person you are dealing with is reluctant to discuss or is not well informed, walk away. Different levels of quality are available within the same companies. Ask lots of questions. Good luck with your project.
Tags: rate, shenandoah, 3000 more, about join, about join Direct, about join Direct then, about join Direct then have, annual membership, annual membership years, commit annual, commit annual membership
Hi all, I recently got a price by a licensed plumber to hook-up my new gas cooktop. Whopping $250 bucks! Now I know I am in ny where prices are high but I think I am beiing gouged here. 15 minutes tops to connect flex gas line. Anyway, I would like to hook it up myself and need the experts to weigh in on if a DIY'ercan do this. Also, what do you thinks of the 250 bucks estimate? The same plumber also wants 450 bucks to hook up my new kitchen sink and faucet (new trap and valves). Needless to say I will be tackling this one myself too. Any advice, links, articles, books that you think will be helpful would be greatly appreciated. Thx. FC
First of all, you are not just paying for the time there. They have to drive out to your place (twice if he has to look at it) Pull a permit, and then there is overhead, insurance, bond, licensing, and their knowledge. We charge $100-$125 just to show up at your door to work for the first hour. Labor rates will vary widely around the US. Now, more to your question: Is the gas line already there? Is the cooktop already set? Do you need a regulator or is there one on the unit? Depending on your skill level, I believe this is a DIY job for sure but it depends on you.
If all the piping is in place and it is just a matter of connecting the flexible gas connection and turning on the shut-off valve then yes, you can do-it-yourself. Be sure that the flare connections are scrupulously clean and don't have any nicks or dents. Some will advise you to use some pipe joint compound on the flared portion, some on the threaded portion and some on both but I say to either keep them completely clean or use no more than a drop of light oil on the flare and threads. If you need to install a flare-to-pipe thread adapter then you DO need to use a paste thread sealant approved for natural gas on the male threads ONLY. Do not allow any paste on the first two threads. Use an approved gas leak testing liquid on all connections after completing the job. The sink is probably easier and I suggest that you visit your local library and check out several DIY books on home plumbing for step-by-step instructions.
Thanks Tolyn. Points well taken. The gas line is there. Cooktop is not yet set. Waiting for my granite to go in. There is a regulator in place however I will be changing that as a new regulator came wit the cooktop. So I think I am going to give it a shot. Thx again. FC
Thanks Furd. I didn't know what a flare connection was so googled it and now I know. I do not see a flare connection in my set up. Should there be one? Thx again. FC
Gas hookups are many times done with flair fittings. You will need a flaring tool but they are less than $20. You may also want to check out the gas hookup kits at the home store/hardware store and talk to the people there. They should point you in the right direction. I also suggest picking up a bottle of leak detector.
I do not see a flare connection in my set up You don't see a flare fitting on the end of the flex line? The cooktop will come with an iron to flare fitting, I am sure. If not, they are easily purchased.
Thanks Chandler. Quick follow-up - with the flex line can I go directly from the cooktop register to the main gas line or do i need to use the rigid black pipe coming off of the cooktop? Thx again FC
If you want to look further into having this done for you, call a few more places to see if they're in line with the estimates you got from the original guy.
Tags: cooktop, flare connection, flex line, flare fitting, portion some, there They
Over a period of time, it has lost power, gotten harder to start, and now won't run. I can get it to fire for a couple of seconds at full choke, but it dies when moved to half choke and usually after a few seconds one way or the other. Squeezing the throttle seems to make no change to engine speed. The throttle cable is attached and is opening the throttle flap. It's acting like it's fuel starved or has an air leak. All the gaskets between carb and engine seem to be OK. I've replaced fuel lines, fuel filter, and spark plug. I replaced gaskets and diaphragms in the carburetor using a kit left I had bought for my last, similar weedeater. All the parts fit correctly, but I'm not sure that is the correct kit. I double checked the Walbro illustration for the carb, so I think I have all the parts in the right places. I cleaned the carburetor as best I could with carb cleaner, but I don't have the tool needed to remove or adjust the needle pins. I cleaned the screen, metering needle mechanism, and all the passages I could get to. I've cleaned out the spark arrester. I mixed a batch of new gas. Its still won't run. One other thing: the squeeze bulb won't squeeze. It works fine when disconnected, sucking on one side and expelling the other. I have to admit I've never drained the gas between uses, even over the winter. I always use up the last batch of gas leftover from last year. I've about convinced myself there must be a blockage or varnish around the needle valves. Am I on the right track? Any suggestions? Where would I get the special tool needed to reach the tiny splined, recessed needle pin heads? Is there a way to use carb cleaner fuel additive without damaging the engine?
Hello Waldroop! Since you say the primer bulb won't work, then it is definitely a fuel problem. It won't push fuel out? What if you remove the return line from the carb? (the smaller of the 2 lines). Will it shoot gas out? Or is it having a problem pulling gas in? (when you push the primer, it doesn't return to the normal position).
Correct. With all lines attached, the primer bulb doesn't push gas into the carb. The bulb doesn't 'deflate' at all when squeezed. By return line, I assume you mean the supply line from the tank to the carb. That's the smaller of the two lines. When that is disconnected, gas does not shoot from the carb when the bulb is squeezed. The bulb isn't deflating at all. However, when the primer line is disconnected from the carb, the primer bulb works normally. It deflates and shoots gas out of the disconnected line, then refills from the tank. I also checked the passage from the primer line into the metering chamber. It's clear. Primer gas is making it into the metering chamber.
Sounds like the return line is restricted. I was thinking the return line was the smallest of the 2, but could be wrong. The supply line goes to the tank and has the filter on the end, and connects to the suction side of the carb. The return line goes to the tank and has no filter on the end, and connects to the discharge side of the carb.
Hi Cheese, That was an assumption the small line was a supply, but I'm wrong. Small diameter, no filter in the tank, and goes straight to the metering chamber, not through the pump diaphragm. Duh. That line is clear. I checked the passage in the carb and replaced the line. Should gas shoot out of the return when the bulb is squeezed? I'll look again; maybe didn't put the pump diaphragm in correctly. I won't get to look at it agin until this weekend. Thanks for the help. W
Not sure if anyone else is confused as I am or not but maybe time for some clarification...?? Best I can follow your terms waldroop, and please correct me as required... Metering chamber = Carburetor....? Pump diaghram = Primer bulb....? I beleive the primer bulb is supposed to operate in the following manor.... When the bulb is deflated (pressed) it should expell out the return line which should go to the fuel tank with no filter, when the bulb reinflates it should draw through the carb from the supply line which runs from the fuel tank with a filter. If the bulb will not deflate (press) I would guess as cheese mentioned the return line is restricted OR possibly your lines are reversed and it is trying to expell through the carb in reverse direction it is intended to. Usually the lines and fittings are of different size to help prevent this, however it can and does happen. If you remove the bulb press it, the fitting that blows goes to the fuel tank and is return, the fitting that sucks should go to the carb. If I have made matters more confusing please ignore this post LOL
Hi Aziz: Those are part names Walbro uses. Here's the diagram: www.walbro.comService and AftermarketAftermarket Parts and ServicePoulanTrimmerWT628 (Craftsman isn't listed, but the WT628 carb I have shows up under the Poulan 32cc trimmer.) The metering diaphragm (#34 on the diagram) is the diaphragm in the carburetor which has the silver wagonwheel-shaped piece of metal attached in the middle. The pump diaphragm (#32) is the diaphragm in the carburetor, on the opposite side, which has two horse shoe-shaped flaps. The fuel filter in the tank is attached to the smaller fuel line which runs directly to the carb. A second, larger line comes out of the carb and runs to the bulb. A third line, also a larger line, runs from the bulb to the tank, but does not have a filter. From what you say, part of my problem was that I had the lines on the bulb reversed. (I thought the bulb is supposed to push fuel INTO the carb.) I swapped them. Now the bulb is sucking fuel from the carb and squirting it into the tank. The bulb is pressing and filling like it should, but the motor still won't run. I'm still thinking I have a blockage around the needle valves. I'd like to take the power and idle needles out (#49 and #50) and clean that area out, but I don't have the special tool. The needle heads are recessed, and there's not enough room for needle nosed pliers. One of Walbro's suppliers told me the special tool can't be sold to the public because of an EPA rule. @#^$! I ordered a new carb. Thanx for the help! W
That is what I was getting at with the lines. Are you certain that you have good spark?
No, I'm not certain. I put a new spark plug in, gapped to .028 per the local mower shop. Since it tries to idle for a few seconds at full choke, then dies at half choke, I'm assuming a fuel problem rather than a spark problem. Need to check that. The best way I can think of is to remove the plug from the engine then reattach the plug cable and try to start with the plug against the block with the gap visible to see if it's arcing. Is there a better way? W
That'll do it, but I'm with you that you probably have spark, or it wouldn't run at all. Have you verified that the exhaust isn't clogged?
While servicing the carburetor, did you replace the inlet screen? It is on the fuel pump side and will clog up over time. If you did not, by all means do so. This alone may solve your trouble but you may want to check the muffler and exhaust port for blockage as cheese suggested in the previous post.
Hi Cheese, Puey: Yes, Cheese, I took the muffler/spark arrester apart. It was a little sooty, but not blocked. No, Puey, I didn't replace the screen. I rinsed it off with carb cleaner, though. It had a small piece of something on it when I started, nothing significant, but it's all clean now (at least looking from the outside). I didn't know they came out. It looks pressed/swedged in, kinda permanent like. How do you remove/reinstall? Thanks for the responses, guys. I appreciate the help. W
You can just pick it out with a pin or sharp point of a knife. It just pushes back into place.
Cheese, Azis, Puey: SUCCESS! The new carb did the trick. Out of curiosity, I took the screen out of the old carb as you suggested, Cheese, and gave it a good cleaning. There is a pretty good drop in the amount of air I can blow through the carb with and without the screen. I can't see light through the screen. Should I be able to? Maybe that's the problem. I'll try to remember that for next time. W
Glad you got it! Some screens you can see through, some not. (some are thicker than others). It probably will restrict airflow a bit, but it shouldn't stop it.
Hi If someone know where I can find the adjusting tool for the craftsman 32cc trimmer carburator if not a normal screwdriver thank
lunai1; Please start a new thread, you will get little response tagging onto a post that is 4 yrs old. Have a good one. Geo
Tags: craftsman, 32cc, weedeater, return line, from carb, primer bulb, carb cleaner, fuel tank, line which, metering chamber, pump diaphragm
Hi. I have a battery backup on my home security system. Guy who installed it at the time said i would have to call them back to replace the battery when it went out. I dont want to spend $100 to do that! Im sure its something I can buy/do? Here's the parameters of the battery, from what I can tell: 12v 4ah ca1240 I know its a 12 volt battery, but i have no idea what the other stuff it. Can I just purchase a 12v battery and connect the terminals?
It shouldn't be a problem replacing that battery yourself, but post your panel type so it can be ensured. You need a 12 volt 4 amp/hour battery. And in most cases they will have .187 terminals. I would try a battery specialty store for replacement.
Juist go to an internet serch engine and type in 12v 4ah battery. Should be around $12 plus shipping.
Excellent! I just found this link: http://www.amazon.com/Batteries-com-Sealed-Lead-Battery-FB12-4-5/dp/B00099DV2G/sr=8-1/qid=1159465053/ref=pd_bbs_1/104-0072837-7643109?ie=UTF8s=electronics I think I'll get it. kcxj - im not sure i know what type my panel is? I know the system is a Vista and installed about 5 years ago?
Alright, now Im a little confused: 1) Im not sure whay kind of stores are battery specialty stores. 2) This is what I found on the net: 12V / 4Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery For FB12-4.5 12V / 4Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery For 450VA 12V / 4Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery For CP-S375SL 12V / 4Ah Sealed Lead Acid Battery For 12 Volts / 4 Ah I dont know which wouuld go with mine!?
http://www.lufkinsecurity.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATSCategory=80 This should do ... Just make sure it has the same connections...
Interstate, batteries, Joe's Batteries...that sort of thing. Stores that sell nothing but batteries.
If you have a Radio Shack nearby, I would goto them. Lil more pricey but much more common to find and they're guaranteed to have it in stock. 12v4a batt should cost about 15-20 bucks, but if you can afford the space in your panel (twice your current battery length) I would scale up to a 12v7a batt for about 30 bucks. Depending on your panel...most are plug and play. On some panels the battery indicator will dissapear immediately. On some, it will go after about 4 hours. And others, you'll have to reset. -Jesse
of coourse, you can buy a 12V4ah to intead the old one by yourself 1, check the size if any speical 2, check the terminal and connectors
Don't overthink this. If your system is a Vista (of any model), any 12v 4 to 7 AH Sealed lead acid battery will work just fine. Unplug old battery, plug in new battery. No, you don't need to power down the system. It may take up to 24 hours for the battery trouble to clear.
Thread is almost 5 years old, guys.
Tags: battery, Acid Battery, Lead Acid, Sealed Lead Acid, your panel, battery specialty, Lead Acid Battery, Lead Acid Battery, Sealed Lead, Sealed Lead, Sealed Lead Acid Battery
i plan on removing my old 550 in ground heating oil tank and installing a basic 275 horizontal tank in the basement. are all tanks, warranties,fittings lines etc. generic basic items or are there specific manufactures that make a better product. granby is a name i see appearing a lot. the plumber i plan to use said any tank that is UL listed is adequate, and that doubled walled tanks or containment tubs would be overkill. thanks in advance for the advice
Double wall or secondary containment is not overkill if the tank leaks for any reason. Are you feeling lucky?
Yes you are taking a chance.I replaced and put in a fairshare of tanks and kind of agree with your plumber.Get the thickest walled tank.Must leaks are at the joints and where the piping and tank meet if not careful.
No way would I move the tank inside!!!
Hi airman,here abouts the vast % are done inside because of cold oil and frozen lines.The ones that are not can keep you out allnight.Snowing here now and got about 5 this morning and overnite.Just done that way.
I would definitely get some kind of containment setup. I would think it's rare for a tank to start gushing open one day, but slow leaks can turn to a lot of oil if it's not noticed immediately. Some kind of pan or double-wall tank that will let you know when there's a leak that needs to be fixed or replaced. Whether you agree with it or not, any kind of home oil remediation is huge $$$.
If freezing is an issue id put it in the ground
No way, no how, would I put a tank in the ground even if I could get a permit to do so. Granby makes a double bottom tank if you want some extra protection. There are also pans made especially for use under an oil tank. If you are really parnoid, there are also oil detection systems you can install in the pan.
i wouldn't even dream of putting it in the ground again. the current tank is a 550 in ground installed in 1957 and i wont be fully relaxed until its gone. should remediation be needed i might as well put the house on the market, i know it's huge $$$$ and as an added bonus the state gets involved. based on all you guys experience whats the likelihood on average that the tank has some small leak? i don't notice anything in the way of oil loss or water in the oil. as far as secondary containment goes it seems your general consensus is to have it. whats the better way, double walled or basin?
How much room do you have for the tank? Finished basement? Roth makes a fiberglass tank with metal containment BUT there are some posts in the boiler section about poor install and leaks and worthless warranty. Smaller footprint though so maybe an option. I'm sure somebody makes a vertical one also but no clue on price. Like other thread...Craigslist. My friend bought a used boiler for a couple hundred $$ and the guy was almost ready to pay him to take his 2 year old tanks but no need for my friend.
In VA any old tanks and spills are taken care of by the state. Im not a fan of them being in the house. Id rather see them buried.
ask NJTROOPER how he feels about inground tanks in NJ............. http://s224.beta.photobucket.com/use...nk Remediation
As far as secondary containment goes, I prefer the basin. The reason for this is nobody pays attention to the warning devices on double wall tanks at least after the tank has been installed a while whereas with a basin you can install an audible alarm or at the very least, you would smell the oil in the basin. I have never seen a catastrophic tank failure on a residential tank. Trying to predict the chances of a tank having a small leak is a real guessing game. There are just too many variables. Around here most tanks are abandoned in place, meaning they are pumped out then either filled with sand or just the pipes removed the tank plugged. There are a couple of companies around who can fill them with some kind of foam. The foam option is usually only done if getting to the tank would involve major demolition such as tearing down a garage or house addition built over a burried tank.
based on my research so far it seems nobody puts too much thought into oil tanks. even experienced plumbers i have spoken to say for a basic 275 basement install they just get whatever the local supply house has in stock providing its UL rated. the local plumbing supply places i have called just stock basic single walled tanks. i have a nice discrete corner where a basic 275 would fit nicely. the decision i need to make is whether to get single walled basic or double? tomorrow i will call granby to get info on their double walled tank. perhaps i am over-thinking this too much, as Grady stated i know a catastrophic failure would be unusual. i need to make a decision ASAP before the in ground tank runs too low and ill be forced to get another minimum delivery. i am leaning towards the basic single walled with an alarm perhaps? thanks
I think the single wall with a pan with or without the alarm is a good move.
thanks grady i called granby and it seems that the 275 gallon double bottom tank is about 40% more than the single walled standard. as far as the basin goes is there one available that's not so obtrusive? i saw a picture of one that's as big as a bathtub?
Here's some tank pans, trays, alarms. Oil Tank Pans | Trays | Alarms Oil Storage Solutions - Custom oil tank covers and fuel oil containment products I prefer the style in which the tank legs sit in the pan. You have to be sure to put something under the legs to prevent the ends from cutting thru the pan. I have seen some pans that come with steel discs for that purpose.
Thanks for the links I suppose i will go with a basic single wall 12ga 275 tank As i mentioned earlier it seems that even commercial supply houses dont get involved in specific details on tanks, looks like they mostly stock the basic single walls, i could not find one in my area that had a double wall granby in stock. As far as brands are there any other brands besides granby and are they all equil in quality or is there one brand in particular i should stay away from?
Anything other than a standard single wall is going to be hard to find other than special order. I've used both Granby Highland for years. No problem with either one. Just make sure the tank is UL listed. Either UL 80 or UL 142 are the standards for oil tanks.
thanks grady ill go with the 275 standard and one of those simple unobtrusive slip under pans you sent the link to. code here is 12ga is that sufficient or any reason i might want to go up to 10ga? thanks
I seriously doubt you can even find a 275 in 10ga. If you did, I certainly wouldn't want the job of getting it in a basement. Talk about a beast.
the installation on a 275 gallon heating oil tank in the basement started but its not yet complete. as every professional has a technique thats a bit different i had a few questions concerning the installers methods. 1)concerning the fill pipe the length of the pipes from the tank to the house exit is appx 5 feet. how much should the fill pipe be pitched? of the two pipes installed but yet to be designated one is pitched about 1/2 in 5 feet and the other about 1 in 5 feet. also how should the little 45deg. fill elbow with cap be positioned? can it be attached directly to the horizontal end of the 5' long fill pipe or should a short vertical rise/nipple be attached first. the technician plans to make the fill pipe higher than the vent pipe, that will put the fill at about 48 seems a bit too high for me. 2)the 12 gauge single walled tank is slightly pitched towards the bottom valve, the level vial is slightly cracked, i assume this is enough?? 3)in a prior post several respondents mentioned the use of swing joints to alleviate settling upon fill. here they were not used but are not code. are these critical? 4)the burner is currently set up with two lines a feed and return, should the new tank be piped the same way or is the return not needed? why do some burners have a return and others not? i definitely want to be present for the first filling the installer works under a licensed plumber and seems qualified however there are still variations between a professional who does 3 tanks a month and one who does 3 a year, which is why a ask for your opinions. that said i have a tendency to over analyze everything if there are any critical points i need to be aware of please let me know. thank you
You should have about 1/4 pitch per foot of pipe for both pipes. The 1 in 5 feet is ok but the other one needs more pitch. In a pinch, it would be ok for the vent. The 45 is ok directly on the horizontal as long as the horizontal extends 3-4 from the side of the house. Four feet off the ground is too high for a fill. Waist high is PLENTY unless you get massive amounts of snow against the house in that area. When installing a tank, I use legs 1 longer on the end away from the tank outlet than the other end. The level vial is cracked?????? On a steel tank, swing joints are not needed unless the tank is going on a dirt floor. I will NOT install a tank with a return from the burner. If you feed off the top, a Tiger Loop is FAR preferable to having a return line. Tigerloop
Thanks My knowledge is limited concerning the dynamics of having a return or no return, pros/cons ?? When the boiler was installed 15 yrs ago they used the same existing lines and configuration, so the return was always there. Now their plan is to feed from the valve at the bottom and return rhrough one of the openings on top with a deep tube so prime is not lost. The level vial is cracked meaning it is tilted ever so slightly towards the feed side On the fill if the 1 in 5ft sloped pipe is ok will it be acceptable to 90elbow up with say a 3 or 4 nipple than attach the 45 fill just to get more gravity behind it or is the 45 fill at the end of the pipe good enough to not have fill issues?
The reason you don't want a return line is: With a two pipe system (one having a return line) you are pumping at around 17 gallons per hour whereas with a single line, you are only pumping the amount you are burning. The slower flow rate allows the fuel filter to do a far better job of filtering. In addition, there's no chance of having the return line fail pumping oil all over the basement. If you do decide to come off the bottom, there should be an oil safety valve installed. Oil Safety Valve http://www.websterfuelpumps.com/pdffiles/osv1.pdf You'll notice I listed several cons no pros. That's because there are none in my opinion. The ONLY pro is if you happen to get air in the fuel system, you won't have to manually bleed the pump. This can be overcome with the installation of a Tigerloop. Make sure the copper they install between the tank pump is plastic covered if it comes in contact with any concrete. You can use a nippe then the 45 if you so desire. I normally come out of the house 6 or so then install a 90 nipple for filling. Just make sure there are at least a couple of inches between the house the fill cap. The length of the verticle nipple depends upon how high I want the fill. Normally a 12 nipple is plenty. No problem with the gauge vial being slightly tilted.
Thanks for the info grady The tank is in just waiting on filling as i need to present. You guys have given me some good education on the whole return line thing. The plumber has all ready run the return line and will make the connection after the fill is complete. My plan is to call the oil company after the tank is hooked up and running and have them send one of their technicians who is knowledgeable and who i can trust and have them assess the configuration and possibly rework the lines into a one line system. (some of these guys are only qualified to change filters and clean based on my past experiences) i will also be asking them about the safety valve, is webster one of the better ones or are the all of equil quality? As mentioned the new tank feeds from the bottom, is about 6 feet from the burner feed. The bottom feed from the tank is at an elevation just a few inches below the burner inlet elevation, does this slight differecne matter or must the inlet on the burner be below the tank outlet? Just curious? If there is no real advantage to a return line Why was the old system configured with a return line? The old system was a 550 inground tank. In the case of an older larger inground tank does the return become a positive?? Thanks
I know exactly what you are talking about when it comes to technicians. Some are true technicians while others, with the same title, are far from earning said title. This is true in every trade. As far as I know, there are only two manufacturers of the safety vavles, Webster Suntec. I don't believe there is a significant difference in the two. Regarding the tank outlet burner inlet elevations; as long as the level of the oil in the tank is above the burner inlet the bunrer will be gravity fed. When your old tank was put in, Tigerloops probably didn't exist. Even if they did, few people, even today, use them. This is due partially because they don't know, partially because of cost, a few are afraid of technology.
Thanks I forgot to ask.... I was looking to run the old 550 inground to absolute minimum before hooking up the new tank. On an old tank of this type typically how many inches of oil would represente absolute minimum Would it still be advisable to convert to the one line system without a tigerloop?
Normally the suction line is anywhere from 2-6 off the bottom on an underground tank. With a bottom feed, you don't need the Tigerloop. Simply disconnect the return line, remove the by-pass plug from the pump, install a 1/4 pipe plug where the return line fitting was in the pump. Five minute job.
my 550 in ground feeds 8 off the bottom. I know this as that's where I ran out of oil. That left 60 gallons in the tank I can't use. Are they pumping the old out for you? Could be a bunch of sludge to be filtered if they do. My friend just pumped out a tank with harbor freight pump that looks like a gas nozzle. He filtered all of it through a very fine micron filter to catch all the crap. The family property he was at is going to foreclosure. All copper has been stolen since no one there. The tank WAS full with 275gallons
one thing i learned from this project after all of my questions and research is to NEVER take oil from an old tank and put it into a new tank. the bacteria it brings along from the old tank will help to promote sludge buildup in the new tank. also is the harbor freight pump manual or electric? i thought any type of pump that deals with oil had to be a certain type of spark preventive pump?
You learned well. Any electric pump used to pump flamable (such as gasoline) or combustable (such as fuel oil) should have an explosion proof motor. Notice I said should. For fuel oil you can USUALLY get away without an explosion proof. You a gambler?
Tags: gallon, basement, tank, return line, fill pipe, from tank, single walled, basic single, having return, line system, about feet, burner inlet
It isn't commonly discussed, but many women face serious health issues on account of large breasts. These issues range from extreme self-consciousness to skin irritation and breast-related muscular pain. Women considering addressing the issue with surgery should consider the risks and benefits involved, and are justifiably concerned as to what to expect after the procedure.
surgical implements
Insurance Coverage
To ensure that you don't have any nasty financial surprises after your procedure, make sure to thoroughly investigate the extent of your insurance coverage. Insurance sometimes covers the entire procedure, depending on the woman's applicable health factors. The specific terms of your policy will be clear about this, but make the extra effort to obtain information in writing. Make sure to arrange for a letter of predetermination prior to your surgery date, if required.
Risks
Major complications from breast reduction surgery are very uncommon. Even so, every surgery comes with inherent risks. Your surgeon will make sure that you understand these potential risks before you are operated upon. General risks with surgery include bleeding, infection and reactions to anesthesia. Risks specific to the surgery include asymmetricality of the breasts, such as slight differences in breast size and nipple height. If this occurs, it can be adjusted down the road. Some patients experience a change in breast sensitivity. Patient adherence to the instructions of the operating surgeon helps to lessen the risks.
Post-Operative Expectations
You'll be moving around out of bed the day after the procedure, though you'll need to avoid any strenuous bending and moderate lifting. It's best to sleep on the back to keep pressure from the post-operative tissues. Your doctor will remove surgical drains, if they were placed, within a couple of days of the procedure. You'll be given a special bra to wear for a few weeks until the tissues have stopped swelling. Stitches will be taken out over the course of about three weeks.
The Following Months
It will take some time after the surgery for your breasts to settle in to their new shape. The incision marks will be pink-to-red after the stitches are removed, and they will generally remain so for a few months, slowly fading to fleshtone. It will take a while for the nerves in the area to knit themselves back together, so you can expect sensation changes for a few months after the surgery. Sometimes it's permanent, but it's usually temporary.
Scarring
The scars left by breast reduction incisions will be permanent. In some patients, they're more visible than in others. You can expect them to fade in time, and many women see excellent results from scar-reduction creams. The scarring is easy to conceal with clothing, and even low-cut blouses may be worn without the scarring showing. For most patients, the massive confidence boost precipitated by a successful breast reduction surgery more than compensates for the scarring.
Childbearing Considerations
If you plan on having a child after having the procedure, keep in mind that childbirth (and, if you choose to, breast-feeding) will greatly affect the size and shape of your breast tissue. These changes are unpredictable and may change the way that the breasts appear to the point that another surgical adjustment may be desired afterward. The natural process of breast-feeding may be prevented as the tissues in the breast are surgically shifted, so discuss this with your doctor if you feel that your quality of life may be affected.
Geology is a broad field in earth sciences. Geologists can specialize in a particular area of earth science, such as geophysics and petrology. Broader areas of study such as geo-environmental studies and marine geology combine several science disciplines, with a strong geology base. Geologists work in many industries, including in the oil and gas industry, analyzing natural resources such as minerals and oil, studying the interaction of earth systems and providing an understanding of how the earth works.
Undergraduate
A geologist's training begins in a college program for earth science, geoscience or geology. Undergraduate courses cover many areas of geology, such as mineralogy, groundwater resources, meteorology and seismology. Geology students also need to study statistics, calculus, chemistry and physics, as these maths and sciences are used extensively throughout geology studies. As a geology undergrad, it's advisable to apply for an internship. You would ideally want to work in a geology department or job that is geared towards a specialty that you're interested in. Geologists with an undergraduate degree can find jobs as mudloggers -- who work with natural resource companies to test soil samples -- or as technicians and geological trainees, who work hands-on under experienced geologists.
Graduate
Graduate geology programs, whether at the master's or PhD level, focus more on specialization than an undergraduate degree. Geology specializations include marine geology, mineralogy, petrology, climatology and paleontology. Graduate student geologists may go through internships for experience or assist professors with teaching and research duties in their chosen specialty. Graduate student geologists spend time in the field, learning sampling and analytical techniques on different types of natural resources.
Jobs and Salaries
Geologist jobs in the oil, mining and gas industries rise and fall based on the natural commodities market. According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, geologist jobs are expected to grow 18 percent between 2008 and 2018. Job openings may outstrip the number of qualified geologists in this time frame. The median salary for a geologist, as of 2008, was $79,160. The highest salaries are found in the oil and gas industry, while the lowest are in state government.
Licensing
A geologist can become a licensed geologist after several years of experience. Geologists are licensed by a state board, and specific requirements vary from state to state. For example, in Washington a geologist must graduate from a geology or related degree program, have five years of geology work experience and receive a passing grade in the National Association of State Boards of Geology examination. Some job positions require a geologist to be licensed, and many jobs pay a higher salary for a licensed geologist over an unlicensed geologist.
The FLHX Street Glide features an all-new chassis.
The 2009 FLHX Street Glide is a touring bike manufactured by Harley-Davidson. The Street Glide is similar to the Harley Dresser, but with lowered rear suspension and a leaner, all-new chassis.
Oil Specs
The oil capacity of the FLHX Street Glide is 4 quarts (3.79 liters). In terms of brand and type, differing opinions abound. Consult your owner's manual or mechanic for advice.
Engine Specs
The Street Glide is powered by a hefty 1,584 cc air-cooled engine. The bore and stroke ratio are 3.75 inches by 4.38 inches, and the compression ratio is 9.2-to-1. The engine generates 92.6 foot-pounds of torque at 3,500 rpm.
Dimensions
The touring bike measures 95.1 inches long, 38 inches wide and 52.2 inches high. The seat height is 26.3 inches and the ground clearance is 4.7 inches. The wheelbase measures 63.5 inches. The bike weighs in at 773 pounds dry.
Many home theater enthusiasts enjoy the benefits of projectors for movie viewing. Projectors allow users to view images in a large format, creating theatre experience. Home theater projectors are not without problems, however. Because they rely on fragile lamps and bulbs, unique problems can sometimes occur in these devices. Proper alignment and setup is another challenge that must be addressed with projector use.
Instructions
1. Check that all cables are correctly placed, and that connector pins are not bent or broken. Be sure that all power connections and cables are secure.
2. Verfify that the projection lamp is installed correctly. Refer to the user manual under the section marked Replacing the Lamp. Also double-check that the lens cap has been removed.
3. Adjust the Focus Ring if the image is out of focus. The projector screen must also be placed at the correct distance, or the image may appear blurry.
4. Check that the zoom lever is in the proper position. Incorrect zoom will distort the image.
5. Adjust keystone settings if the image has slanted sides. This can be accessed under Display - V Keystone on the projector display.
6. Reset the projector if it stops responding to controls. Turn off the unit, and remove the power cord. After waiting 20 seconds, re-connect the power and turn the unit on.
7. Replace projector lamps when needed. Lamps can burn out and make a popping sound when burnt. The projector will not operate until the lamp has been replaced.
Tips Warnings
Refer to the owner's manual included with the projector for specific troubleshooting steps.
It's easy to replace the aerator on your kitchen faucet. You don't need special tools or skills. This job is a simple process that you can complete in 5 minutes or less by yourself.
Instructions
1. Use your pliers to remove the aerator. The aerator is located on the end of the faucet.
2. Turn your pliers clockwise to loosen the aerator. Use your hand to finish removing it.
3. Push on the screened end of the aerator where the water comes out of the faucet. The screened aerator and a rubber washer will come out of the metal ring.
4. Put the new aerator into the metal ring. Make sure that the flat, screened portion is facing out. Place the rubber washer on the end of the aerator that connects to the faucet.
5. Connect the aerator back to the end of the faucet. Turn it counterclockwise to tighten.
Tips Warnings
Place a small rag on the end of the aerator between it and your wrench to avoid scratching the finish. Take your old aerator off of the faucet before you go to purchase a new one. Take the old aerator with you. This will help you to be sure you're getting one that will fit your faucet.
New York City has a proud heritage of fire fighting. The first organized fire fighting activities began in 1648 when the city was still a Dutch possession. Since then, the New York City Fire Department has been through a lot, including sacrificing many heroes to 9/11. It also has a fine history linked to its fire engines and trucks. While it is not easy to find used fire trucks in the city, it is possible with some hard work and patience.
Instructions
1. Contact the New York City Fire Department for information regarding possible sales of used fire fighting vehicles. Be sure not to phone any emergency lines, however. Inquire at the front office of your local fire station to ask for more information.
2. Check out New York City auto auctions. For example, the DCAS public auctions and sales website is an important source of information regarding auctions and sales. Be aware, however, that there is no guarantee of finding a used New York City fire truck at these auctions.
3. Check the classifieds in local newspapers and auto-trader magazines for any sales. Again, there is no guarantee of finding what you want, but it's best to cover all local angles before looking beyond the city.
4. Go online and browse the many sites offering used fire trucks for sale. Two of these, Fire Truck Dealers and Festival and Shows, have New York City-specific subdivisions. These sources will help you find local dealers and private sellers.
5. Look at nationwide fire truck dealers such as Fire Truck Plus, Fire Line Equipment, Sell Fire Trucks and Fenton Fire Equipment. Inquire whether these sites have any vehicles specifically from New York City.
6. Ask friends or family, especially those who might know current or former firefighters, about potential sales.
Tips Warnings
If you can, inspect the fire truck thoroughly before making a purchase. Get a receipt of sale and the seller's contact information.