Hi I have a new weil mclain cga-4 standing pilot boiler and 2 white rodgers 1311-102 zone valves. How do i wire the zone valves to the boiler? The boiler has 2 wires coming from the transformer relay R and G terminals marked 24 v thermostat. Is this where i wire the wires from the zone valves? If you have a diagram it would be most helpful. Thanks. Scott Hi Scott, do you already have the zone valves wired up? I think you know that those valves need a particular 3 wire thermostat, correct? ( curious why you chose those? ) I would have used the 1361 series so as to be able to use off the shelf 2 wire thermostats... Here's the PDF for your zone valves, Figure 9 comes closest to what you need... of course you only have two valves so ignore the 'extras'. Where that diagram shows connections to T1 and T2 on the boiler control, you will use the R and G on your boiler. On your valves, terminals 2 and 5 are connected internally. You will wire terminal 3 and (2 OR 5) to the G and R on your boiler. Questions? Thanks for replying NJ Trooper. I have deceided to replace the white rodgers valves since they are 30 years old and install Taco Zone Sentry Zone valves instead. I looked at the wiring diagram and i think i know install them. Have you heard much about these valves? Any good? Scott Sorry, I know as much about them as you do! I've read all the literature and stuff... I like the idea of an actual 'ball valve' as the operator... but hands on experience with them? zip... I haven't heard anything BAD about them though, and that's GOOD!
Related Posts:
Wiring zone valves
wiring zone valvesHi: Have replaced old cast iron with pex. Kept cast iron radiators (hot water) on first floor. Second floor used fin and tube. Created 2 zones. Original thermostat is two wire, h...
White rodgers zone valve wiring
White Rodgers zone valve wiringI'm replacing a basic round Honeywell HEATING ONLY t'stat (without any switches) for a hot water system with a programmable digital to save energy. The White Rogers...
Taco zone valve wiring
Taco zone valve wiringFirst post, new to the forums. Im trying to add two Taco 571 zone valves to my baseboard hot water system. My set up is this: a Slant/fin Sentry 105K BTU gas fired furnace wi...
Wiring an electric water heater
Wiring an Electric Water heaterFirst of all I didn't wire the heater the first time, but I am fairly sure that is was wired incorrectly at least in part. It is a whirlpool 40 gallon 2 element unit...
Tac thermostat model 31100 for normallyopen zone valve
TAC thermostat (model 31-100) for Normally-open zone valveMy condo has a central boiler on top of the 12-storey building that feeds hot water to baseboard heater in each unit. There is a room ther...
where abouts in or around your house do you fit a water hammer arrestor? One posting I read mentions to install in closest to the source of the problem. Where did you buy your arrestor? Can I find one in HD? I have the same problem at home. Best to put it on the line where the problem is occurring. Washing machines are common culprits. oh, crap, mine are on every tap, does that mean i have to get more than one?? mine occurs when drawing hot or cold anywhere around the house although the source of the water hammer seems to be on one particular section of pipes in the basement. I bought a pair of arresters and will probably get them installed around that area. Water hammer is caused by fast acting valves, washing machines and toilets. If ever valve has a problem, I would start off looking else where. Otherwise your just treating the symptoms, rather than finding a cure. I would start by checking the water pressure. Mine seems to happen every time the toilet is flushed (when the tank fills up), the dishwasher is running or the faucet in the kitchen sink is used. Wouldn't the source be in the pipe rather than the valves? Depends how you define source. The source of the noise is the pipes, but the reason it's happening is the valve. The closer the arrestor is to the valve causing the problem, the better it will work. Thanks. I'm unable to get near the toilet since that's been drywalled. I may end up installing the arrestor under the tank. I might be able to install one between the dishwasher and the kitchen sink. I take it they have to be installed vertical? I noticed a cutaway view of the device shows it has an air chamber with o-rings. When they get waterlogged and I drain the line, will the water come out of the chamber or is the arrester toast? Yes. They do make arrestors that don't have this problem, but I've only seen them on This Old House, not at Menards (where I just happened to have looked yesterday). Before you install arrestors fix the problems. If you have a bad valve the arrestor is just a band-aid fix. I'm a bit confused as to what you meant by fixing the problem (bad valve). My toilet tank, lavatory, dishwasher and kitchen faucet seems to be working fine, but they also all cause the pipes to make loud clicking sounds when the valves (hot or cold) are shut. What can I do to fix the situation? Thanks. Water hammering is typically created by valves that close quickly, not bad valves, so I don't understand that post either. Here's an update on my water hammer problem. Because I noticed it happens to most of my bathroom and kitchen fixtures, I asked my plumber to check the water pressure. It was at 85 psi! I didn't have a regulator installed so I asked him to do it for me. It's now set at 45 psi and seems to have eliminated all issues; but created a new one. When I have more than 1 fixture in use, e.g. toilet flushing and faucet open, there's a rattling sound coming from the pipe between the water meter and the regulator. They are about 2 linear feet apart at right angles. The sound is continous and heard throughout the house. When I showered upstairs it sounds like a jack hammer is pounding away in the basement. I've notifed the plumber and he's not sure what's causing it and solve it. Any ideas out there? Will a water hammer arrester work for this case? Thanks. Originally Posted by Homebrewer Here's an update on my water hammer problem. Because I noticed it happens to most of my bathroom and kitchen fixtures, I asked my plumber to check the water pressure. It was at 85 psi! I didn't have a regulator installed so I asked him to do it for me. It's now set at 45 psi and seems to have eliminated all issues; but created a new one. When I have more than 1 fixture in use, e.g. toilet flushing and faucet open, there's a rattling sound coming from the pipe between the water meter and the regulator. They are about 2 linear feet apart at right angles. The sound is continous and heard throughout the house. When I showered upstairs it sounds like a jack hammer is pounding away in the basement. I've notifed the plumber and he's not sure what's causing it and solve it. Any ideas out there? Will a water hammer arrester work for this case? Thanks. Most regulators are adjustable, so before doing anything drastic again, adjust the regulator a bit to adjust the psi up a little, perhaps to 50-60 psi and see if that helps. Thanks. Yes, this one is and has a built-in gauge so I'll try that. I wasn't there when the plubmer installed it but he told the wifey to expect water to come out of the valve if I adjust the pressure. Is that normal? I failed to add that when it jackhammers, it also causes water to dribble out of the valve. Do you have a pressure reducing valve on the house? Any valve that will prevent backflow to the supply (well tank, street) will cause the pipes to bang. A valve closing sets up shock waves in the pipes. A bladder in a well tank for instance will absorb those shocks. You probably have some sort of valve in line with your water source for this problem. As far as I know, the piston shock absorbers can be mounted in any position. Follow the manufacturer's directions, or check their website. Pete By pressure reducing valve are you referring to a regulator? Yes that was installed and while it eliminated all the banging in most of my fixtures, it did create a new one which I described previously. Prior to adjusting the regulator, I checked for the source of the leak and noticed water was coming out of a pinhole purge valve by the side. The leak would stop after a while so I placed a pail underneath overnight. Bad move. Sometime in the evening, the leak must have started again and by daybreak, it had overflowed and caused water to accumulate in some areas of my basement. Good thing the floor drain took most of it away. The plumber has since removed the regulator and I am back to 85psi until he comes back after the holidays with a new regulator. Originally Posted by radioconnection Do you have a pressure reducing valve on the house? Any valve that will prevent backflow to the supply (well tank, street) will cause the pipes to bang. A valve closing sets up shock waves in the pipes. A bladder in a well tank for instance will absorb those shocks. You probably have some sort of valve in line with your water source for this problem. As far as I know, the piston shock absorbers can be mounted in any position. Follow the manufacturer's directions, or check their website. Pete Originally Posted by TheMechanic where abouts in or around your house do you fit a water hammer arrestor? http://www.siouxchief.com/B_WaterHammer_FAQ.cfm http://www.pdionline.org/PDI-wh%20201-2006.pdf By pressure reducing valve are you referring to a regulator? Yes that was installed and while it eliminated all the banging in most of my fixtures, it did create a new one which I described previously. Yes, they're often installed with a check valve that will prevent water from being able to flow back into the municipal supply--a concern if the municipal water system pressure should fail from mains break, etc. Unfortunately, these also prevent the waves from dissipating back towards the supply... The regulator will reduce water hammer, but if you're still experiencing banging at 60 psi you should consider some sort of arrestor to eliminate it completely. Peter Install it as close as possible to the offending valve that causes the water hammer. What is your water pressure? Is the pipe properly secured? Is the pipe properly sized? Water hammer is occuring on almost every fixture in the house. I have a 3/4 in. main line and branching out to 1/2. There is 85 psi on the line so I have no choice but to install a regulator. The old one leaked at the pressure release valve so I'm waiting for the plumber to come back with another regulator.
Related Posts:
Replacing water pressure tank fairly simple
Replacing water pressure tank fairly simple?So I just bought a place and will move within about two weeks. The well report said the tank was leaking and about to let go. I'm thinking I will need t...
Weilmclain indirect water heater safety valve
Weil-McLain indirect water heater safety valveWe have a Weil-McLain indirect water heater which takes the hot water from our boiler at 180 degrees and circulates it around a tank with the domestic...
Water softener continuously running
water softener continuously runningI have a Culligan water softener that has started to run continuously. Can anyone give me an idea on the cause and repair it? Thanks First, put the softener in...
Titan tankless water heater installation help [Merged threads]
Titan Tankless Water Heater Installation help! [Merged threads]Let me start by saying I am a novice with this installation and I appreciate any help. I purchased a Titan N-160 from TitanTankless.c...
Water source heat pump climatemasters problem
Water Source Heat Pump (Climatemasters) problem.I have a condo-Apartment in a High-rise building built in 2003. My condo is equipped with 2 water source AC unit (ClimateMasters with CMX/DMx contro...
Have casement windows. vinyl gasket(?) shot. House built in l986. Truth hardware single arm rollout. Don't know manufacturer of this double pane all wood window. Description of weatherstripping: V shaped piece fits into small groove in wood around glass. The V is attached to a piece of vinyl about one half inch wide. This is the part which fits snug to the wooden frame when the window is closed. Anyone know of where I can buy replacement weatherstripping which would fit? I highly recommend EFI (Energy Federation International) at www.efi.org for purchasing weatherstripping and other energy conservation products. I have bought from them repeatedly - everything from window and door weatherstripping to electronic timers and controls. I find high-quality products there which are often unavailable through local hardware stores or the chain home stores. (note: I have no affiliation with the organization EFI - I'm simply a very pleased customer. Check out their products and I think you'll agree they are superb on quality, selection AND price). Examples of useful energy-saving products at EFI. Just print out this list and try and see how many of these high-quality products and brands you can find at your local chain home store or local hardware store: * Schlegel V Weatherstripping. The V is molded rather than simply a fold, so the spring performance will last a long time, with strong adhesive backing. 1.25 inches wide is suitable for use on the bottom sill, top of the window, and lower sash sides of double hung windows. 11/16ths of an inch narrow is for meeting rails and sides of the top sashes of double hung windows. (7 ft of wide is $2.50, narrow is $1.75) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...Path/21_392_74 * Niagara glass patch. A tape made specifically to seal those cracked windows. (25 feet is $1.30) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...th/21_392_1013 * MD spring bronze weatherstrip. Difficult and time-consuming to install but is the best and lasts forever. (17 feet for $8.95) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...ath/21_392_532 * Mortite 90 foot Rope Caulk. Easy to install (brown or gray. 90ft does 6 windows, $4.95) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...p/cPath/21_392 * Anderson pulley seals for the pulley holes in old double-hung windows ($5.95 for pack of five) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...Path/21_392_72 * Schlegel Q-lon door weatherstripping gaskets made of polyethylene-clad urethane foam secured to a galvanized steel carrier ($15.25) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...ath/21_391_603 * MD door sweeps which flip up so they don't drag on the carpet and then flip down when the door is closed using a simple yet ingenious mechanism. ($8) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...Path/21_391_56 * Todol Pur Shooter Foam Gun SH01*for use with low-expansion Pur 1G polyurethane foam.**($41.25 for good entry-level all metal gun. Todol Pageris professional grade gun is $108) Advantage of the gun over a can of foam is that you get much better control than spraying through a straw (for instance, size of the bead), plus once you start a spray foam can you have to use up the whole can or it hardens and is useless. Note however that you *do* have to be very careful to follow directions with the gun or you could ruin it the same as a can of foam that sprays through a straw. http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...ath/21_28_1130 * can Todol Pur 1G low-expansion foam. (1 can produces 1,200 ft of 1/2 bead for $15.25, for use with foam gun above. Just used this earlier today.) http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...cPath/21_28_65 * a programmable Aube TI-035 electronic control for reliably turning lights on at sunset and off at sunrise - or on and off at any other time you choose by day of week (based on entering your location once - so does not need a photo-eye) ($36) Yes, I have purchased all these products from EFI and am uniformly impressed with the higher quality compared with products I examined in local stores (though I have not installed all of these products yet). By contrast - I purchased an Intermatic (heater) timer at Menard's which I later found out online was only rated up to 750 or 800watts - and was not safe for the 1500watt Broan heater/fan I purchased in the same Menards store. (oops). I had to go online to find a Grasslin or Aube timer rated for 1500 watts and above. By contrast, the EFI fan and timer controls clearly describe if they can handle your specific heater or appliance and so you know they can take the heat. EFI door weatherstripping products http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...p/cPath/21_391 EFI window sealing products http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...p/cPath/21_392 EFI caulks and foams http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...hp/cPath/21_28 other EFI air-sealing products http://www.energyfederation.org/cons...2c2d38baa441af The prices of products at EFI tend to be as low or lower than other online sources (the Aube TI-035 sunset timer was $36 at EFI compared with $40-42 the few other places online I could even find it). The product pages clearly tell you which products are in stock or on order, and they ship promptly. The one time they made an error, they sent out a replacement the same day and I received it within a few days. I also highly recommend the Taunton Press book *Insulate and Weatherize by Bruce Harley (2002) available through Amazon.com. Taunton books on do-it-yourself home care, woodworking etc. tend to be good in general, and this one is particularly excellent. It has clear descriptions, good pictures and diagrams, and they name brands and models of specific products you can look for. According to the author, Most weatherstripping available at hardware stores is not worth the packaging it comes in. Here, from left to right, are some high-quality ones. V-seal ... silicone rubber bulb ... vinyl-covered V-section (Q-lon is one brand name) ... (p. 48) Pages 194-197 list a whole range of suppliers and information resources (including EFI). Best of luck! It sounds like I have the same windows, house built in the late 1980's, Truth hardware, unknown window pane manufacturer, all wood construction, and it needs new weather stripping that fits on the side of the window so that it is snug against the wood when it closes. I tried to go to a local hardware store and bought some tubular vinyl weather stripping from frost king, however there were now grooves on it to fit properly in the window you have to nail it or what i did is use silicone in the groove, slid the vinyl in the groove and taped it in place until it set. DO YOU KNOW WHERE I CAN GET THE RIGHT WEATHER STRIPPING TO MAKE THE INSTALL AND QUALITY BETTER?
Related Posts:
Which window for sound barrier is best
Which window for sound barrier is bestI have a 2 year old home that came with ANSI/AAMA/NWWDA 101/ I.S. 2-97 -- ASTM F588-97 Code- CPM Rating H-R35 - Series 40 Aluminum SH - MST 3870/4060 Windows....
Skylight window film vs tinted glass
Skylight - Window Film Vs Tinted GlassI read a great deal about tinting in this forum. But I am still not able to decide which is the best option. I have two side by side (30 X 54) double pane sky...
Window security film versus plexiglass versus lexan
window security film versus plexiglass versus lexanCan anyone suggest advantages and disadvantages when comparing window security film versus plexiglass versus lexan? I have a door with sidelights...
Sound proof window
sound proof windowHi,guys: I am living roadside. I am a little sensitive to the noise. I would like to have a sound proof window. is there any recommendation on this? thanks. Acton move Soundproof...
Vinyl window retrofit over aluminum frame
Vinyl Window Retrofit over aluminum frameI went to Home Depot to get some estimates for repacing my single-pane aluminum windows with new vinyl windows. They showed me a product from Windowmaster...
This past Sat. evening our hot water tank (Propane) stopped heating water. It's 12 years old and has been serviced once before so I opted to just replace it. (We just bought this house last summer). The old tank was a Ruud Power Vent Model PVP50-1P. My father-in-law came by to install the new tank, since I've never done this before, a GE Smart Water Model GP40T06AVG00. Here's the problem. The original tank has a blower motor to vent the unit. My father-in-law never saw one before and said we'd be ok without it. So we bought the GE unit and have it installed. He called today and said he found out that we might need it because the tank wasn't being vented out the chimney. Instead it is vented out a 3 pipe to the outside wall. The furnace is vented in the same manner so there's no access to the chimney stack in the basement. So my question is this... With the new tank installed, it is currently direct vented thru that 3 pipe. The vertical runs about 18 from the tank exhaust to a 45 elbow and then about 20 on the horizontal thru the side exterior wall. The tank is in the basement approx. 10' from the furnance. It is in the open not in any type of closet or such. Am I ok with this direct vent set up or do I need to look into power venting it? If I have to power vent it, what do I need? I ask that because the old power vent works, but it has a vacuum line running to the vacuum switch in the old unit. The new one obviously does not. Thanks, Rich The current set up is not ok. First, what kind of exhaust pipe do you have? Typically, power vent water heaters use PVC or CPVC. Standard vent water heaters (the new one) have to be metal vent pipe. If it goes through any walls or ceilings it has to be double jacket vent pipe with a wall thimble. Second, power vent water heaters are perfectly fine to go on a horizontal run and to outside and stop. Standard vent must have a minimum 1/4 inch per foot upward pitch and be vented above the roofline. Any thing less will create exhaust to back up into the basement. You can not take a powervent off one water heater and install it on a water heater not designed for it. From the sounds of it you have two options: 1) Replace the current water heater with a new power vent water heater. This would be my recommended option. 2) Replace the current vent pipe with the proper type and vent it above the roof. I typically don't like venting long runs of vent outdoors as you can get excessive condensation in the pipe as the flue gasses cool off. This will prematurely rust the pipe. Yea it's 3 PVC. I understand what you're saying about my options. Thing is, now I'm stuck with a new water heater that can't be returned and being in the basement with two floors above, venting out to the roof line isn't an option. Shot in the dark, but is there no third party power vent that I could use? Dumb question probably but I'd hate to eat $350. Thanks. That is exactly why my father in law touches nothing at my house. They always seem to find a way to cut corners. Your family could have been poisoned with carbon monoxide with that setup. There is no water heater, that I'm aware of, that you can safely retro into a power vent unit. I've seen several attempts made but I've never seen one work right that doesn't create a health/fire hazard. Additionally, the water heater you now have is not safe to use with PVC pipe. The flue gasses are too hot for the PVC. On power vent units the gasses are cooler entering the vent pipe. A power vent water heater is more than just the blower on top. There are several safeties in place. They include the burner not igniting unless the blower is running and there is usually a limit switch built in to these that isn't on standard water heaters. The moral of this story: Don't listen to someone who doesn't know what he's talking about. There was a reason the power vent water heater was there before. It should have raised a red flag when you're father-in-law said he's never seen one before. Not to start a family war but see if he will chip in on a new water heater since he got you into this mess. Ok well I'm going to replace the tank then. The $350 is nothing compared to our safety. Thanks to everyone for the help. RichS, It MAY be possible to sell the heater. Just explain what the problem was. Yes, you will take some loss, but you may recoup most of the investment you have made. Good luck.
Related Posts:
Thinking of a rheem tankless water heater
Thinking of a Rheem Tankless water heaterWe currently have a 50 Gallon electric water heater and are tired of the huge electric bill. There is a gas access less than a foot away from the water hea...
Shed for water heater
shed for water heater?I am currently trying to remodel an old laundry room into a bathroom, and the 40gal. gas tank water heater needs to be moved outside into a shed. Are there any sheds sold for...
Whirlpool water heater pilot wont stay lit
whirlpool water heater- pilot won't stay litWe replaced the thermocouple first b/c it wouldn't light at all but the ignitor was working and gas was working. We were able to then get a flame, but i...
Tankless water heater replacement
Tankless Water Heater ReplacementI had a 40 gallon gas water heater to heat 4 sinks in a small office building. It was leaking, so I replaced it with a good deal Thermar Gas Tankless Water Heater....
Water heater blankets
water heater blanketsDoes anyone have a feel for how much fast heat is reasonably lost in a water heater? Before we left town for 3 days, I turned down the water heater thermostat to vacation mode...
Does anyone have pricing info for Trex, or similar composite decking materials? I know I want to go that route, but am curious as to how much loot I'm going to have to shell out. The labor will be done by me, so that's no problem...just need roundabout building material costs. Hey Bacon, I don't know about particular brands, but the composites that I have seen at Home Depot run approx twice the price of pressure treated. If I remember correctly, last weekend they had 16 foot P.T. for $15 and the composite was $29. Hope this helps. Here are prices for Trex that I was quoted locally last fall. 4x4x52 Trex saddle rail post $26.45 5/4x6x12 Trex saddle deck board $19.70 5/4x6x16 Trex saddle deck board $26.25 5/4x6x20 Trex saddle deck board $32.75 2x2x42 Trex saddle baluster $3.20 2x4x12 Trex board saddle $17.95 1x6x12 Trex board saddle $19.95 This is in Montgomery County, PA. These were the cheapest prices I found. Some places were up to $5 more per board. Best way to find out what you are going to be paying for Trex where you are is to ask your local Trex dealers. I happen to have 3 of them here in town to choose from, and for me, their prices work out to be the same -- any one of them will match the others price, At the moment I'm paying about $45 for a 20' Natural 2X6, and about $51 for Saddle. creiter quoted prices for 5/4 decking and some of the component prices. I don't use 5/4 Trex. For whatever reason, the distributor who supplies all 3 of my retailers is charging the same for 5/4 decking as he is for 2X6. That means it costs MORE to build the deck with 5/4 than with 2X6's -- it requires more joists. Check out www.timbertech.com to find a dealer nearest you. They will be able to provide you with quotes. I live in Mont. County as well and am building a Trex Deck.. I realize it was probably a while ago, but none the less... Where did you get your quotes? I'm currently waiting for a quote from a place in Phoenixville, PA Originally Posted by creiter Here are prices for Trex that I was quoted locally last fall. 4x4x52 Trex saddle rail post $26.45 5/4x6x12 Trex saddle deck board $19.70 5/4x6x16 Trex saddle deck board $26.25 5/4x6x20 Trex saddle deck board $32.75 2x2x42 Trex saddle baluster $3.20 2x4x12 Trex board saddle $17.95 1x6x12 Trex board saddle $19.95 This is in Montgomery County, PA. These were the cheapest prices I found. Some places were up to $5 more per board. Pricing is set by the retailer, based on what their distributor is charging them. I do enough volume that I can beat the retailers down a little on the price, but NOTHING like the prices you are quoting. You want to ship me a couple of truckloads??? lefty, that is the poor PA guy prices. You are getting those rich Cali price schedules. I just paid $27.00 for 12' Trex Saddle Boards at Home Depot, 0% APR (but hidden finance charges if you don't pay in full, equal to the 26% APR you would have paid) for a year. 16' boards were $36.00, both at $2.25 a board foot. The 8' boards were more expensive, $20. Welcome to the forums! In 6 years, hopefully they got theirs installed. Prices do go up.
Related Posts:
Staining or painting trex
Staining or Painting TrexHi - Our deck is almost 6-years old, and the contractor who built it suggested we use Trex as a cost alternative. Since that time (and two claims which were denied to us b...
Staining trex decking
staining trex deckinghas anyone had any experience staining trex decking and any recommended products? i am thinking of staining our entire 5 year old deck which has trex decking and PT posts rail...
Splitrail fence pricing
Split-Rail Fence PricingI am thinking about fencing part of my yard, it will be about 200 ft of fence (40' by 60'). The ground is soft and has no rocks, and there is an easy-access point right fro...
Veranda armorguard
Veranda ArmorguardI am in the planning process of building my deck and came across this product at homedepot. It is new this year and I am wondering if anyone has tried it. It is a pvc wrapped com...
Screw quanity question
Screw quanity questionI would like to thank all the guys that have gave me some great advise on my deck project.Good FREE advise is hard to come by these days!! I am just about to start putting th...
I am redoing my bathroom and I was wondering if it would be best to use thinset for the tiles inside the shower or will regular wall tile adhesive be good enough? Also, can anyone tell me the difference between thinset and modified thinset. All the Pro's recommend actual buy in a bag and mix with water type thinset. Which type, mod or un, I don't know. Some people have said they used mastic (comes in a can), but most experts say no in wet areas. Backsplashes in a kitchen maybe, but not in a shower. There will be some tile guys around soon...I am NOT one. I just finished mine with Modified Thinset. It was a pain in the butt to work with. My plumber came by to do the trim work on the fixtures and said, why'd you use thinset - just use mastic! I said, the guys on the forum all said thinset. He said, ahhh you can't listen to people - you made it harder for yourself. The guys at the tile supplier said thinset for the floor and for stone and marble, but for porcelain, ceramic wall tile the thinset can grab too hard and crack the glaze on the tile. Of course, this is Brooklyn and everyone has their opinion! Jeb..no criticizm on you, of course....but the thinset can grab too hard and crack the glaze on the tile??? Thats one I've never heard before...lol I'd look at it this way, you did a job that should last 30yrs or more if you want it to. Whats a little more work now, right? Wish I'd found this place before I redid the bathroom at my old house...but thats someone elses problem now!! When you say mastic do you mean the white premixed tile adhesive that comes in a tub, or is it something different? Jeb, How did you find it to be a pain? Isn't it the same as using the premixed? The only difference would be that you have to mix it yourself first instead of just scooping it out of the bucket. Mastic is tile adhesive, can, tub, or pail. Sometimes its labeled premixed thinset but its not the same. Thinset is a bit harder to work with, since you have to mix the correct amount of water in, mix it completely, let it sit (slake?), then mix again and use before it hardens.(basically) Mastic is, take the lid off, put it on with a notched trowel, stick the tile, put the lid back on (basically). Pro's are so used to using the same good quality product that it's second nature to them, and they have the big power mixers, can work quickly...etc...they would probably use thinset even on a backsplash. Hope that helps. DO NOT use anything that comes in a bucket in a shower! This stuff is horrible and should only be used on simple backsplashes. Use a good modified thinset, like Flexbond or Versabond from HD, or Mapei Ultraflex or a Lactecrete thinset from Lowes. There are thousands of horror stories about people using adhesive (mastic/premix thinset) in a shower or floor installation. That plumber also has no clue about tiling. My plumber came by to do the trim work on the fixtures and said, why'd you use thinset - just use mastic! I said, the guys on the forum all said thinset. He said, ahhh you can't listen to people - you made it harder for yourself. Ahh, so plumbers are tile experts too. I know they are good carpenters, Ive seen a lot of there handywork with a reciprocating saw on floor joists. I figured I would probably need to use the thinset, but a had a few people telling me to not bother using it because the stuff in the tub is just as good. Thanks for the info. Tony Just making sure its clear. Your gonna use bagged thinset that you mix yourself with water, correct. Mastic should never be used in wet areas, never, ever. And just kidding with the plumbing joke. No intent to offend anyone. I won't kid about plumbers! They are great carpenters! Makes my work prolonged correcting the cut joists , etc. They have no comprehension of framing and the results of cutting one board. I don't let them even have saws on my jobsite under the house. I know what they will do BUT, good plumbers work miracles putting pipes in places where us framers make it impossible, so there's a tradeoff, and as long as there is good communications.
Related Posts:
Shower valve depth in wall rough in other questions
Shower valve depth in wall - rough in / other questionsI got a moen shower stall kit. It's got a head, handle, trim and valve. the instructions however are ALL pictures and really not clear. 1. Ho...
Vinyl tile seams
Vinyl Tile SeamsI have a vinyl tiles that I put down on my kitchen floor four years ago. After about six months, I noticed that most of the seams were opening up. So I just let it go, until now. I...
What grout for 1x1 self stick vinyl tile seam
What grout for 1X1 self stick vinyl tile 'seam'?Folks, what grout should I use with self stick vinyl tile for the 'seam'? In other words it's a 1'X1' self stick tile but I'd like to space them 1/4...
Selfstick vinyl tile gaps
Self-Stick Vinyl Tile GapsWe're getting ready to install a Cryntel self-adhesive vinyl floor and when we opened the box, noticed each tile is beveled on all four edges. We're concerned that dirt w...
Underlayment for vinyl tile in kitchen
Underlayment for vinyl tile in kitchenHello all, We had our kitchen completely redone in 2005. At that time we had a new plywood subfloor installed. Over that was installed 4 x 8 'lauan' sheets an...
Howdy All, Great forum! I have a natural gas furnace with the Honeywell SV9541 2094 Smart Valve and ST9160B 1050 Fan Control Board. We live in Wisconsin and it's summer here, so not much call for heat. But I changed the filter and like to test the furnace and A/C functions when I do. The AC works just fine, no issues there. When a call for heat is issues, nothing happens. The light on the valve is solid green, no flashes. I have the service manual and have looked at the electrical schematics and troubleshooting sections. This is what I've found: 1) The ignitor ohms out at 3.5 ohms across the blue wires. 2) 24 V is present on the Fan Controller Board 'W' and 'R' terminals. (Manual indicates this is the call for heat) 3) 120 V from the Fan Controller Board to the valve on pins 2 and 4 of plug C3. 4) No 120 V from pins 1 and 3 to the combustion blower when a call for heat is made. Any ideas? I'm think the valve is bad? Thank you very much for your time. Brian Failed control board is not sending power to combustion blower (inducer) Thanks for the reply. When I measure across Pins 2 and 4 at plug C3 on the valve, I get 120 volts. Doesn't this come from the control board? Brian I have no idea... I don't have a schematic to look at let alone a furnace make and model number to try to find one. I got the manual from here for the SV9541 Smart Valve with the ST9160 Fan Controller: http://www.forwardthinking.honeywell...ll/69_2012.pdf I'm looking at Page 7. connector c1.... what is the voltage between 6 7 and 6 8 and 6 4? Measurements between pins on C1: 64 = 14.8 V 67 = 28.0 V 68 = 28.0 V I think you need 24V between 64. Went looking for a description of what each pin should read as I waited your reply. http://icpindexing.toddsit.com/docum...4008200102.pdf Found this manual with a description on page 49. Am I reading it correctly that the voltage at C1 Pin 4 is the 1/2 wave rectified AC that will read 12 - 16 volts on most multimeters? it says that is the same as P1 pin 5 which is 24VAC.... anyway there is no diagnostic for a solid green led on the valve is should be off, heartbeat, or flashing.... nothing for steady..... I would try to jumper R to C1 pin4 anyway there is no diagnostic for a solid green led on the valve is should be off, heartbeat, or flashing.... nothing for steady..... HVACtech is right..Possibly you dont see it slightly flickering..(heartbeat) And FYI smart valves are known to fail internally...The internal boards are crap...There is nothing good about a system with a smart valve IMO... The $$$ you will spend on repairing that best be spent on a new unit IMO.. You may be chasing ghosts.... And smart valves are like $400 bucks... I worked on many systems with smart valves..so just experience speaking.... How old is the unit??? Just saying is all... Dont want you to through good money after bad... Im sure HVACtech has worked on many himself...If so he may be inclined to suggest the same... Good luck....And its good your starting now before the winter hits..... Thanks for the responses, gentlemen. Your time is greatly appreciated. lawrose - the unit is about 12 yrs old. I've looked at the valve in the dark, and I don't see any fluctuation in the light at all. hvactechfw - I will give your suggestion a try. I was confused when reading the second manual, as I see where you point out that is said C1 Pin4 is the same as P1 Pin5, but C1 Pin4 is connected to P1 Pin2 in the schematic. Thanks again, I'll posted back later today after work. Brian Gents, I tried tapping R to C1 Pin 4. Nothing changed. I'm also confused by the steady on Status LED. Does anyone know if it says on steady when there is no call for heat? Or is it supposed to 'heartbeat' all the time? I can find that in the manual. Thanks again, Brian I have the service manual in my hand... I will try to find online for you... My manual was given to me by AO smith when I was a rep... Here is what it says on first page... LED... bright-dim....normal operation... Or heart beat as HVAC stated... bright, dim, bright, dim....ect... Ironically the two links that would have it on the service hand book for AO smith are corrupt and will not load... Thanks lawrose. I see the heartbeat indicated in the manual, I just can't find anything for a steady one LED. I guess that makes me think the valve is bad, that and the fact it never routes the 120 to the fan. Im telling you its the board inside... They crack... Its common... Additionally when they do sometimes the saftey by-passes and the gas valve opens when it should not...This happens before it proves a flame falure with the ignighter... Then the chamber fills with gas and it trys to relight... BOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMM!!!!!! 12 years you got your moneys worth... I would replace.... You can maybe change the valve but what happens if the fan goes two weeks later, or it starts leaking...... New units are about $700 or so... You can get at your local Furguson dealer..... Locations Finder Time for a new gas valve....... Gentlemen, I have a Comfortmaker furnace with Honeywell's SV9541 Smart Valve and during the inspection by my service provider I was told that the valve does not hold (close) the gas when the furnace does not call for gas. Does this happen a lot? The technician has connected some device to the valve test port to measure the pressure drop. It was dropping rather quick. He also had some sort of sniffer that indicated about 900 ppm of gas around the orifices when the furnace was not calling for gas. Should the smart valve hold the pressure for long? The servicemen told me that the valve replacement will cost $500 and the issue is with my both furnaces! Any comments would be appreciated.
Related Posts:
Stressed honeywell smart valve stress
stressed Honeywell smart valve stressHello - My gas furnace is working intermittently - a technician diagnosed it as a problem with the smart valve - turns out that a plastic electrical tie that h...
Reversing valve not switching
reversing valve not switchingThis is a Goodman PHJ030-1A package heat pump. First: question is will low freon stop the reversing valve from switching? (Yes or No) Second: I check the reversing val...
Tac thermostat model 31100 for normallyopen zone valve
TAC thermostat (model 31-100) for Normally-open zone valveMy condo has a central boiler on top of the 12-storey building that feeds hot water to baseboard heater in each unit. There is a room ther...
Taco zone valve problem
Taco Zone Valve ProblemI have a 3 wire Taco zone valve and I'm not getting heat on that zone. The t stat is a new Honeywell type that looks like the old round ones but has no mercury switch in it....
Sticking eriehoneywell zone valve
Sticking Erie/Honeywell zone valveI have a 16 year old Infloor radiant heating / DHW system that uses an Erie/Honeywell three way motorized 24 VAC valve to swap the boiler output between the radia...
I needed to split the signal off my satellite dish to multiple bedrooms. Rather than using one of those cheapy 4-way splitters, I bought a powered signal booster... with 4 outputs. Problem is it doesn't work with the powered booster/splitter, but works fine with the non-powered...??? Does boasting the satellite signal before it enters the satelite compay's box create problems??? Or is it possible that I just got a bad booster? Thanks, Steve need to use a device called a multiswitch, not a signal booster. The reason is a little technical, but the first one is the frequency of the signal and the second is that the receivers send a signal back the dish to cause the LNB to switch polarity in order to tune to other channels. Without isolating the different voltage signals, the receivers fight each other. The multswitch correctly detects and sends the correct signal to each reciever. Something similair to this, although it will vary between DISH Network and DIRECTV and between the different reciever models. http://www.prosatellitesupply.com/dish_network_dp34_switch.htm You can try contacting your installer or provider to get the multiswitch. With a four receiver package, it would be in their best interest to help you. Just to make sure I understand, what exactly do you want to do? Are you wanting to use four recievers to watch four different programs, one for each TV? Are you trying to share a standard antenna with the four TVs? Are you trying to share to output of the reciever so that all the TVs will see the same program? I hope this helped! Thanks for the information. QUOTE Just to make sure I understand, what exactly do you want to do? I ran a single RG-6 coax off my dish and need to split it to 4 individual bed rooms. (each bedroom in my house is wired to a central point in the basement where my old cable service came in). Each room will have its own receiver, so every room can watch its own channel. Everything seems to work fine with the non-powered splitter.... not being an expert, I just thought it would be better to boast the signal at the same time I split it. So is ther even a need to boost the signal off the dish? Steve You need at least two cables from your dish into the multiswitch. One is for vertical and one is for horizontal transponders. The multiswitch selects the required cable as requested by the satellite receiver box. Your dish must have an LNB with dual outputs. here is a switch. The picture also has an over the air antenna connected in. http://www.appliedtel.com/Site/Shop/ProductView.aspx?prdID=230 In this day and age, you would want at least 4 coaxes from the dish, and likely plus an OTA antenna. Originally Posted by classicsat In this day and age, you would want at least 4 coaxes from the dish, and likely plus an OTA antenna. That all depends. With Dish, two RG6 lines to two twin tuners gives four individual channels. fred
Related Posts:
Solid surface tub surround
Solid surface tub surroundI need help deciding what material I want for a tub surround. Right now it's one of the cheap 4 piece units that the previous owners installed. I want a solid surface mat...
Squirrel cage used as exhaust fan questions
Squirrel cage used as exhaust fan questionsHere is what I am trying to do... My son races motocross so I spend a fair amount of time working in my garage on his race bike. When I start it, being a...
Want to get kitchen cabinets painted what will it cost
Want to Get Kitchen Cabinets Painted, What Will It Cost?I want to get my kitchen cabinets painted. I've asked a few painters and have gotten prices from $200.00- $5000.00. I have 17 cabinets which...
Titan tankless water heater installation help [Merged threads]
Titan Tankless Water Heater Installation help! [Merged threads]Let me start by saying I am a novice with this installation and I appreciate any help. I purchased a Titan N-160 from TitanTankless.c...
Venting a wood burning stove
Venting a wood burning stove.I recently purchased a wood burning stove to use in emergencys to heat the house for 1 or 2 days every 5 years or so when the power goes out. After I bought the stove,...
I've been browsing through alot of these threads,and still have quite e few questions about installing a pump for my camp.The pump is a 1/2 horse Sears shallow well pump.I don't know exactly how old it is,it was given to me.I also have a 15-20 gal. pressure tank,that I would like to install in the camp.Here are some of my questions: The camp sits about 175 feet from the water source.It is also about 50-70ft.above the source.I can put the pumphouse approx.within 30ft.of the shallow well,and about 10-12ft.above it.The pump has a 11/4intake,and 11/4exit. Is this pump big enough to pump the water up to camp? What size 115v wire should I use to wire it? Can I pump the water up to the pressure tank in camp? What size pipe should I use from the pump to camp? I'm sure I'll have more questions,but this is a start.Thanks With the elevation difference between the source and point of use, you'll lose about 30-35 psi plus any friction losses in the piping. A Sears 1/2 hp pump will probably produce 55-60 psi at best, so that doesn't leave much pressure at the top. I prefer to have the tank at the bottom of the hill, with a checkvalve located between the pump and tank. The pressure switch sensing line should be relocated from the pump head to the camp side of the pressure tank. There should also be a footvalve on the end of the suction line. I'm guessing that by the time the Sears pump lifts the water from the source, pumps it through the pressure tank, checkvalves, and uphill piping, that there will not be an adequate supply at the camp. Ron Thanks for the input,Ron.I was afraid that was the case.If I start out with 1-1/4pipe and reduce to 1',will that help me at all?Also,I kind of expected some pressure loss,that is why I was hoping to put the pressure tank inside the camp,and use one section of pipe from pump to pressure tank.Will that help me at all?Thanks,Brian Using a little bigger pipe will ease friction losses a little, but you'll still have the elevation losses whether the tank is on top at the camp, or below with the pump. It takes 1 psi to lift water 2.31 feet, so elevation change is the big factor. Ron also if the water table is more then 26ft down from where the pump is located you arent going to get much if any water with a shallow well jet pump something you might want to check out before you build yourself a pump house sirdiealot Thanks for all the info.Since I got the pump for free,I'm going to try to make it work.If it doesn't I'll just have to buy a bigger pump.Maybe I can split the difference between the lift and line to the camp,and not exceed the 25 lift limit.
Related Posts:
Shallow well jet pump problems
Shallow Well Jet Pump ProblemsHello, I am attempting to replace my shallow well jet pump for my house water supply. Here is what I started with. 1/2 horsepower old old pump with a 14 gallon or so...
Well pump problems
Well pump problemsHey Old Guy where you at? Thought I would pick you brain abit. I went to look at a friends electrical problem and since I was able to correct that he decided to see what I could...
Sump pump replacement
sump pump replacementI replaced my sump pump with a 3/4 hp version of this: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...R3Vlpage=none after I initially installed it, it ran ok, however, water keeps on...
Waterpowered sump pump
Water-Powered Sump PumpWith the storms we had this past weekend, we lost power for about 7 hours and I had to manually empty the sump pit with buckets. I'm looking for a backup solution and I was...
Sump pump outside discharge line qs
sump pump outside discharge line q'sHi all, I am installing a sump pump + backup sump pump in my basement and am planning on running 1+1/2 PVC from the pumps up, through the joist, to the outside....
I've lost my manual and don't know how long to charge (and recharge) my new battery. Also I'd like to run the drill with a power cord, if that can be done; what size (amps) converter would I need, and how would I wire it? They don't make an actual converter for that use...and the expense and complications of building one would be avoided by just buying a basic corded drill for about $30. Doesn't the charger have an LED that changes color when charged? If not I would probably go about 6 hrs for a full recharge. The manual says the battery charge time is 3-6 hours. You can get the owners manual here.
Related Posts:
Ryobi weed eater wont start
Ryobi weed eater won't start.First off, I have an old computer Pentium 200 Pro. To come to this web site and end up here took about 10 minutes. Think about it! I have a Ryobi gas trimmer that is t...
Ryobi mulchinator blower vac rgbv3100
Ryobi Mulchinator Blower Vac RGBV3100I own a Ryobi Mulchinator Blower Vac RGBV3100. As of late it won't start. Before it would start but was very tough doing so. I know that this model of blower/v...
Ryobi one
Ryobi One+( I am from Hong Kong, no experience but interested) what do you think of Ryobi One Plus system, it seems very convenient, just 18 volt cordless power tools, batteries, and chargers all...
Ryobi cs30 wont idlebogs down on accel
Ryobi CS30 Won't idle/Bogs down on AccelI have a one year old CS30 and since day one it hasn't run right. It starts quickly but once it warms up it won't idle and wants to shut down when I give it...
Sump basin drill holes
Sump basin - drill holes?I have been looking around for an answer on the net but have not come up with a definative answer so here I am. I have a sump pit that is approx. 18 diameter and 22 deep....
Looking for any tricks of the trade I might be missing - first timer on a job like this. I have an old townhouse in Baltimore with a great covered front porch. Its about 18X7 I think. At the top of the three steps up to it, about 24 boards (of I bet the 120 on the porch) are rotted about a foot in. I bought 1x3 pine tongue and groove 8 fters and primed all sides with a slowdry oil primer. I also bought a 6ga, 1hp hot dog compressor with 16 ga and 18 ga nailers. I have a good chopsaw as well. I figure I just remove the trim (and the side board on the left side b/c one of the boards is under it), and rip up the boards that are rotted - careful to preserve the groove of the first good board. I was going to give the exposed joists a wipe with linseed oil. Then, measure the replacement, chop it to fit, put it in and use either a spreading hand clamp or a piece of tongue and groove placed in the far side to tap it in place, and face nail it with 16 gauge nails. Then I'll work my way across nailing into the exposed tongues. When I get to the last one, rip it size widthwise, give the tongue a bead of glue and face nail it in. Am I missing anything? What about felt cloth on the joists? Is linseed oil on the joists necessary? I have an 18 mo. old and another on the way, and my wife will kill me if I rip up the porch and get stuck in the job - so any pitfalls folks know of would be helpful! Are you sure that you want to use pine? Is the pourch exposed to the elements? Yellow pine is (was) used in older homes as porch floor covering, so it shouldn't present a problem if it is properly finished. Only one problem I see is fitting the last piece in place. You may have to remove the tongue on the last piece to allow it to fall into place, and face nail it over the joisting. Any attempt at spreading the flooring may tend to split the adjoining pieces, so go easy. I'm not sure I wanted to use pine, but I found it at a mill yard and already spent ~$100 on it. I'm only doing a partial replacement and will likely need to do the rest in a couple years - at which point I think I'm going to use a composite. Funny thing about these porches (there's a block of them so we swap stories) is that the original wood (circa 1920) is an actual 1X3, while the only tongue and groove I could find is a nominal 1X3. Sorry, Chandler, but what does spreading the floor mean? I was figuring on ripping the last piece to size and face nailing. I saw this site: http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/d...g/t_groove.htm and the guy puts a bead of glue in when the last piece was pretty slender. Thanks for your comments, this forum has backed me up on a floor tiling, bathroom painting, radiator removal and a ton of other projects! Don't forget that composite gets hot in the summer. If people like to walk with no shoes, it could be unconfortable. I was referring to spreading the lumber while it is fresh in order to get the last tongue/groove to fit. It often doesn't work as well as cutting off the bottom of the groove and face nailing it. Do you plan on painting the flooring? If so, I would lightly pre-prime all the pieces (including the ends) in order to seal the wood and help avoid buckling. Not too much though or your tongue will be too fat... chandlermorse If I read right, your new boards aren't as thick as the old stuff. What were you going to do to address the height difference where they meet? I was going to beltsand where they meet. It will be underneath one of those waterhog mats, so you won't be able to see it. It'll do until I can replace them all. The weird thing is that these same boards have already been replaced once (with slimmer contemporary stock). The last time they were replaced they primed them as well. I'm wishing now I did more to weatherproof them. I did use a slow dry oil primer, but we'll see.
Related Posts:
Winterizing a screened in porch
Winterizing a screened in porchWe have a 10 X 20 screened in porch and I'm looking for the most economical way to close it up for the winter with still allowing for light to come in. Last winter I...
Replacing old sewer line tree roots
Replacing Old Sewer Line - tree rootsI'd like some feedback on ways to fix the problem of tree roots in old clay sewer drains. My house was built in 1949, the drain is clay pipes. About 6 or 8 mon...
Temporary windows for porch
Temporary windows for porchI have (10) approx 34x 44 screen windows on my back porch and (2) screen doors. Here in south Louisiana, most of the year the screens are fine. We bring potted plants on...
Replacing vinyl siding with hardiplank
Replacing Vinyl Siding with HardiplankHello all, I am new to the forum, but I have read lots of posts over the last several months. I am currently considering a DIY-project to remove all of the vi...
Where to buy ready made fascia boards
Where to buy ready made fascia boards?I am located in Northern California east bay area. Can any one tell me where I can buy those ready made, weather proofing, termit resistant fascia boards (1x6...
Hey guys, Im trying to replace a burnt out light bulb in my ceiling fan. I simply cannot understand gain access to the light bulb! I moved into this apartment and no manual was left for this ceiling fan. The only serial # associated with this fan is E75795. I tried squeezing the globe and unscrewing it to see if it would release...to no avail. The globe must come off somehow. Everything is basically one piece. Any suggestions. Below are the pics. I know it cant be this difficult. http://img300.imageshack.us/img300/1317/ceilingfan1pf4.jpg http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/5972/ceilingfan2rg7.jpg Some car light bulbs have a cylinder base with two prongs sticking out either side. To get them out you need to push and twist, then pull out streight. This is most likely the same in reverse. It is the globe that has the indents, (etched into the glass) and the fixture that has the prongs. Try pushing up just a bit while you twist the entire globe. I do not remember if it is to the right or left. Try both. Good luck. Please post back with the results. I just installed one that is similar to this one. Reach up and over the globe rim to feel the bulbs. There are probably 3 bulbs, with candelabra base. It would help to have a dental mirror to help find them. Installing mine were like doing in Braille. Thanks for the replies. I tried pushing the globe up and twisting left and right but nothing gives. I am able to look over the rim but its basically flush and doesnt have any bulbs in view. Should I even try and attempt to pry the globe from the fixture? The globe doesnt have any indents. My fingers ache! The picture below shows that I unscrewed the light portion of the fan (electrical wires can be seen. They prevent the light portion from coming off completely) and unscrewed a rather useless bolt. Any other ideas? http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6338/photo0199qg4.jpg Ok I may be wrong. What is that thing, bottom left of the picture. do those screws come out? The thing your talking about contains the wire that I pull down to turn on the light. I can take out the screws....but I doubt it will help....but I'll do it anyway. Why must life be so difficult! I am still leaning toward, twist the globe, or twist the ring between the globe and housing. that is probably a Hampton Bay fan light. they are sold at home depot. the web site gives no tech info. Well guys, The lightbulb has been replaced. How? I dont know. I finally had to drop my ego and get the maintenance guys to do it. wasnt home when they did it so I'm not sure what happened. I'll be sure to ask them how they did it. I'll report back with the answer. I would sure like to know. Please do post back. I finally bumped into my maintenance guy and he told me how he did it. He told me he had problems as well (getting the globe off). He had to put on rubber gloves and turn the globe clockwise. The globe has a very smooth surface and is impossible to turn with bare hands because you cant get a grip on it. The solution was simple, the implementation took some effort....hehe. Thanks for all your help though, Eug I hate to say I told ya....... I won't say it... After he told me do it, I tried it out myself. I almost gave up trying to get the globe off even with the gloves on! Finally, the globe came off. I'm gonna run down to home depot and buy brighter bulbs. Maybe I'll buy those twisted fluorescent bulbs. I need more light! I have expereinced this on a couple of projects in the past and have also heard it from some lighting distributors. When the lamps heat up the glass lense it expands and nearly fuses its self to the metal housing. A lot of people end up breaking the lense in the process of removing it. Swithcing to fluorescents should help to recitfy this issue as they obviousl do not produce as much heat as incandecent.... not to mention the benefits of the savings in eneregy. Thank you, damnlightbulb and Hooty. I had tried a number of times over the past year to remove the globe on my Hampton Bay ceiling fan, to no avail. And those dead bugs in it kept accumulating. The heat was the key. After the light had been off overnight to let it cool, the globe unscrewed on the first try - I didn't even need rubber gloves. A very sincere thank you for this suggestion. I too searched in vain for even a name on the ceiling light fixture, took off all the screws - stripped one- and kept an eye on the electric wires but found the metal parts all fused together. Once I found this site, however, I followed the above instruction and the globe came right off. Thanks again for the suggestion. Glad the post was able to help you. Welcome to the forums. I too have just moved into a private condo, and the light stopped working on the ceiling fan which must have been installed back in the 80's its so old. My first guess is that the ligh bulb needs to be replaced, but I ran into the same problem damnlightbulb did. There is no way to get into the inside of the glass to replace the bulbs! I will try to do the clockwise turn with gloves and see if this works. Otherwise, since I have no maintenance team/guy to call. I will have to contact my landlord to figure out remove the glass fixture, or just buy a new ceiling fan. GGrrrrr, I am beyond frustrated.
Related Posts:
Replacing headlight bulb in 2005 accord
Replacing headlight bulb in 2005 AccordDo I really need to remove the battery in order to access the driver's side headlight ?! What does the owners manual say? Have you tried to replace bulb with...
Replacing honeywell t8411r heat pump thermostat
Replacing Honeywell T8411R Heat Pump ThermostatHi, I'm looking to replace an old Honeywell T8411R Heat Pump Thermostat with something with similar wiring so I can do it myself. Any suggestion? Tha...
Repairing popcorn ceiling
Repairing popcorn ceilingI have to notch out my ceiling under the ceiling joists to run some wires for recessed lights. It's a popcorn ceiling and I'm not sure what the most efficient way to resto...
Question on what kindbrand of closet fluorescent light to use
question on what kind/brand of closet fluorescent light to useHello, I am having a house built and I need to purchase closet lights. My quesion is what is a good brand and a decent light for a clo...
Radiant barrier paint on attic ceiling
radiant barrier paint on attic ceilingI understand you can buy radiant barrier paint for about $50/gallon at Sherwin Williams. Just wondering if I can spray it on myself. Can I use a regular paint...
I have a older deck, pushing 18 years that will be in the need of replacement soon. It is only 2' above the ground at the highest point. It is approx. 15'x30'. I really hate staining wood and thinking about going with a patio in lieu of the deck. How much more/less would a stamped concrete patio run compared to a standard wood deck?? how about pavers?? I think for the concrete and pavers.. the big cost would be the wall around the perimeter... i'd probably leave that out for now.. add it later since i'd be at ground level.. it wouldn't be required.. Thanks for the feedback.. Scott Hi, This is a really tough question! Are the support posts and beams for your deck in good condition? If yes, the least expensive and the least labor would be to remove and replace the deck boards with a better quality wood (like Ipe) or a composite or vinyl product. Pavers would be less expensive than the wood deck, if you didn't have to do a lot of site work first, plus the time and labor involved in removal of the deck. Do you live in a frost zone, where heave is liable to occur? Would you be doing this yourself? Heavy work. Stamped concrete is beautiful. It will undoubtedly be the most expensive. Making repairs to cracks may be difficult. Because it's a relatively new industry for residential, it's important to find a good installer with experience. So, I probably didn't help you decide a darn thing, did I? Regarding a wood deck, take a very hard look at the joists, beams, support posts and installation into the ground. With a 2' high deck, the decks boards may be better than the 18 year old supporting structure. It would be a shame to put new, long-life, deck boards over a support sytem that will not last as long. I don't know if a privacy fence is required for a poured or paver patio - it is your call related to the site if your patio is actually 2' lower than a deck. Patios allow more creative landscaping. Stamped concrete must be done by a professional, especially if you want to keep the maintenance down. The size also dictates that. A paver patio can be a DIY yourself if you are willing to contribute your labor. A DIY paver patio is the most economical and is not subject to the soil/cracking problems of a slab and can be done at your pace over a period of time. If done by a conractor, it is in the same ballpark as a paver patio. Dick I used to have a deck and now have a paver patio. The expense of the pavers, IMO, is more than that of a deck, but not having to power wash and seal the deck 2 times a season is priceless. However, paver patios are not maintenance free. Every season I resand with techo-block sand (has a polymer that holds better in the joints than regular sand). I've done this for the past 2 seasons and i feel like it's much easier than power washing and sealing my deck. Logically, it's not much less maintenance time, but for some reason, it's less stressful....you don't need to be as carful. Also, you don't have to worry about finding 2 days of moisture free weather Good luck to you! shw104, A deck that's 18 years old?? There is NO WAY to even think about keeping the existing framing!! You'll spend several thousand $$ install composite deck boards on it that have a 20 or 25 year warranty, and then watch the framing fail within 5 years!! Concrete and pavers are going to cost a LOT LESS than a wood or composite deck. Concretemasonry will certainly correct me if I'm wrong, but even with the added expense of stamping, a textured finish or whatever, a concrete slab will run you about $10 to $14 / sq.ft., tops. Decks start a bit over $20!! Pavers are cheaper, but there's a lot of work involved in getting the base right. It's your backyard and you're gonna be looking at it for a LONG time. What do you want back there???
Related Posts:
Mistake installing driveway pavers
Mistake installing Driveway Pavers...?Hello, We are doing a driveway installation with Permacon pavers. We put down 12 of 0-3/4 crush compacting every 3 inches and then 1 inch of stone dust, compa...
Low cost waterproof deck floor second story
low cost waterproof deck floor (second story)I have a deck, it is on the second floor level, I try to convert the first floor under the deck to be a three season room, but first of all I must make...
Mix it or premix concrete
mix it or pre-mix concrete?I want to add a 4, 90sf slab to an existing patio in my backyard and I'm thinking of mixing the concrete myself, since I was told that it was the cheaper way to go, but...
Patio coverpergola installation questions
Patio Cover/Pergola Installation QuestionsHello all, More of a lurker than a poster here, but have been looking around. I live in AZ, and our back yard really isn't very functional right now. The...
Part of 35 yr old concrete floor is not taking stain what can i do
part of 35 yr old concrete floor is not taking stain - what can I do?Hello, I have put one coat of yellow colored stain on my concrete floor in patio. Part of the floor did not receive the stain....
i am looking for a web site for quasar products. i have a quasar model HQ2101MH air conditioner and would like to get a user manual or any other literature/specifications/schematic that is available. any leads would be greatly appreciated. thanks ps. already have checked matsu****a electric and panasonic web sites.
Related Posts:
Lennox central air conditioner help needed
Lennox Central Air Conditioner Help neededThe hot summer has come and as of today my central air conditioner no longer cools my house. There is a small amount (very small, weak) of air that comes...
Refinishing teak dining room table help
Refinishing teak dining room table - helpI have a teak dining room table that need a lot of work. When we bought it my wife put furniture polish on it. Ever since any moisture has left rings and m...
Need help with waterright conditioner
Need help with Water-Right conditionerHi all: I have a Water-Right ASC2-1044 softener, installed new 6 years ago. It has worked flawlessly since then, although I think I have a problem with it now...
Looking for decorative hex bolt covers
Looking for decorative hex bolt covers.I am building a loft bed for my daughter. It is held together with 3/8 inch bolts and nuts. The bolts are not recessed. I would like to put decorative covers...
Mitsubishi mr slim vs standard heat pump
Mitsubishi 'Mr Slim' vs standard heat pump?I'm delighted to have found this site! I can't believe all the knowledgeable and helpful people here. I have been running wood heat alone for 3 years now...
Help - Let someone borrow our chainsaw and now it will start but will not run. Read some of the other post and have replaced the sparkplug and cleaned the airfilter... We also loosened the gas cap, started it up and it would run. Press the trottle and it would shut off. The longest it has ran was about 30 seconds (and only once). Now what? Thanks so much for any and all help. This is why I won't loan powertools to anyone. Is it possible that whomever you loaned it too didn't mix oil in the gas when running it? The piston could have gotten hot enough to do damage, but not hot enough to actually sieze it to the cylinder. Sounds like a carb problem though. Try taking the carb off and put a new gasket kit in it. Pull the welch plugs and replace the filter screens. Replace welch plugs with small punch and put a drop of clear fingernail polish around them when you punch them back in. The polish acts like a thread locker to keep the welch plugs from, coming out. Wipe off excess after installing the plugs. Best way to get the old plugs out is to punch them with an awl and then pry them out. Pay carefull attention to the gaskets when you take them off. There are 2 gaskets on each side. The side with 4 screws--the thick gasket goes on first and the thin gasket with the metal washer on it, goes on last. The side with only 1 big screw--thin gasket goes on first, followed by the thicker one. Don't over tighten screws. The gaskets are soft, and so is the aluminum. Replace the main jet too. It's included in the kit. The jet is under that gasket with the little metal washer on it. There is a little fork-shaped piece of metal that pivots back and forth on a small shaft. There is a small phillips screw holding it all together. Be Carefull when removing that little phillips screw. There is a tiny spring under there, and it usually ends up flying across the room if your not careful. Good luck finding it, if you drop it. Now pull the jet out and just drop the new one in. If a carb kit, and some adjusting won't fix it, your probably going to have to take it to the local shop. To adjust carb: Carb will have an L and an H stamped on it. High speed needle and Low speed needle. Adjust the high speed first: Run the saw up to full throttle and turn the H screw in (Lean) untill saw reaches max speed and then slows down. Now back the screw out again the other way untill the saw picks up speed again and then slows down. That will be just slightly rich. You want to run it a bit on the rich side because when you sink that chain into a log and put a load on the saw, it takes more fuel to keep it running. If you just tune it for max speed and cut logs with it--you'll be running it too lean, and cook it. Adjust the low side next: Same as high side. Turn the L screw in and listen to the saw pick up speed. Turn it in about 1/4 turn at a time untill you hear saw slow down or maybe even die. Now back the screw out about 1/4--1/2 turn and check throttle response. It should be snappy. Engine should idle well for at least 30--45 seconds and then snap to attention instantly when you give it full throttle. It is stumbles and stutters when you throttle up--it's still a bit rich. You can lean the L needle about 1/8th turn at a time untill it's nice and smooth on transition. Go back and double check the H needle to make sure it's still a little rich. Adjusting the L needle has an effect on the H needle, so be sure and doublecheck the H needle after you tune the low end. You may have to adjust the idle screw after tuning the L needle. If the engine was overly rich, and you adjusted the low nedle, it will make the idle spped up. Just back that big screw (with the spring on it) out untill it idles at the speed you want. Usually slow enough that the chain won't turn when the saw is idleing. i have one pp4218av did the same thing loaned it out had the same problem check the return springs for the linkages that controles throat plates i'll bet one is broken that is what i found with mine even if you didn't loan it out it would have probably happend to you if that is the problem good luck in search of new spring for mine I believe I'd start by opening the mixture screws a bit, and readjusting them. Actually, I'd probably start by changing the gas to be sure it has fresh gas with the proper oil mix in it. Then if there are still problems, go to the mixture screw. Sometimes opening them up and readjusting them allows a bit of trash to flush through and clear up the problem. I realize this is an old thread, but maybe you guys are still around to answer my question. I need to know the factory settings for the H and L adjustments. My saw will not start and I know the adjustment screws have been changed from the factory settings. My saw is the Poulan Woodshark P3314 WSA 802046 S/N 06198D301478-2 (06:50), 42CC:EM Thanks Turn them both in until they lightly seat, then back them out 1 turn each. Then start it and adjust the L screw for best idle and crisp throttle response. Rev up all the way and adjust H screw until it revs the fastest, then back off the screw until the saw begins to flutter a bit. From there you may have to go back and fine tune the L screw. Just where do you get a special tool to adjust the 2 mixture screws on a Poulan chainsaw?? They both are not the same type?? One looks like it has a security pin in the middle?? I am having trobuble with it running at high speed. It want to stall. Idle and low speed are fine Fuel cap vent is plugged. That's why you hear the hiss of in-rushing air when you open cap. Engine has sucked a vacuum into tank, eventually starving fuel flow. Completely disassemble cap and drill out or punch out tiny center breather hole. Assemble and install cap.Beer 4U2 Do not follow that advice. You risk setting yourself on fire this way. You probably need to open the high speed screw a little bit. There are often times caps that pop onto the screws that limit them and you can remove them if necessary. Sometimes you have to use a pair of very thin needle-nose pliers to turn them. Some can be turned with a blue electrical butt-connector pushed down over the head of it. Ha! There's a one-way, rubber check valve inside the cap to allow air in and keep fuel from escaping. Sorta looks like a nipple on a baby bottle. You need to remove the tether retainer to get to it. You'll understand if you actually know how the cap is constructed. All that said, if the saw dies while running and there's a hiss when you remove the fuel cap, disassemble cap and drill out the tiny bronze plug in the vent hole. Believe me, I know how the cap is constructed. I do not recommend drilling a hole in it. If you are disassembling the cap only to clean the vent hole behind the duckbill, that's one thing, but that doesn't sound like what you recommended in the previous post. You said to drill or punch a hole in it. I guess you could have meant to drill or punch out the already existing vent hole? If the existing hole is clogged, just clean it out. No need for punches and drills. Trying to keep it safe here... we get some wacky advice from time to time. I'm sure you understand. If the other suggestions do not work. I just fixed a problem with a 2-cycle backpack blower that was doing the same thing. The gas line had cracked. The bowl would fill when you primed it (it was leakind fuel where I could not see it), it would start, but would die when bowl emptied. Fixed line, and issue was resolved. Also, if it was working well when you loaned it, your friend may have used contaminated fuel, might need to clean the carb. Scott Originally Posted by jgavrile Just where do you get a special tool to adjust the 2 mixture screws on a Poulan chainsaw?? They both are not the same type?? One looks like it has a security pin in the middle?? I am having trobuble with it running at high speed. It want to stall. Idle and low speed are fine Did you ever get hold of a tool to get at those adjustment screws? I need the same thing , ...mine is hard starting and won't idle at all, ... someone suggested backing the screws out a turn or two and cranking to clear debris, then return them to original settings, .... I'm getting poor fuel delivery into the motor and can't wet the plug no matter how much priming or choking I do, ... it'll sometimes start on full throttle, usually not even that, ... cheers Originally Posted by cheese Turn them both in until they lightly seat, then back them out 1 turn each. Then start it and adjust the L screw for best idle and crisp throttle response. Rev up all the way and adjust H screw until it revs the fastest, then back off the screw until the saw begins to flutter a bit. From there you may have to go back and fine tune the L screw. Do you define a turn as 180* or 360*? .... thx 360 degrees. Just as a starting point for the settings. Spoke with a Husqvarna representative during a training course.And here is what he said on carb adjusting 2 cyl products. ------------------------------------------------------------ Reset carb by gently screwing both (H L)adjustment screws all the way in and they backing them out exactly 2 turns(1 turn= 360 degrees). You should be able to start your product then you will need to idle it up enough for it to stay running on its own.Here is the key you have to let engine warm up approx 4-5 min before making major adjustments or you could end up setting it too lean. Once engine is warm run at full speed and make you adjustment on the L only,then you will need to adjust idle accordingly after. ------------------------------------------------------------ Person experience: Some older models you will need to reset carb to only 1 and 1/2 turn instead of 2.Then follow the above instructions. Remember:Alot of times you can mask over other more serious problems by making big adjustments If you have to make huge adjustments after resetting carb and checking fuel system(filter,lines,etc..)then more than likely you have a problem somewhere else. I have part numbers for some of the carb adjust tools and will try and post them later when I get a chance. Hope this helps.... So according to the tech, the H screw should be exactly 2 turns out and stay there, never to be moved? I disagree and this can cause problems in certain conditions. For the best performance and engine longevity, adjust as mentioned earlier. You can start with the screws 2 turns out rather than 1 if 1 isn't enough to get it to run well enough to fine tune it. One of the best sayings I have heard is, “When everything else fails read the instructions.” The three leading carburetor manufacturers have websites that includes carburetor adjustment instructions. Equipment manufactures give carburetor adjustment instructions for the carburetors installed on their equipment. Walbro About Walbro About Walbro Service Manuals Zama USA Zama : Service Tips Tillotson (my least favorite site) the manuals give complete instructions. till3 Not one of you spoke a word about cleaning the fuel filter and not one of you spoke a word about doing a compression test. Not one of you ever thought to take it to a repair shop and pay a couple of dollars to a trained service tech that could have probably repaired it for less then $20! Penny wise and dollar foolish. If you had a job, you could take the chainsaw to a shop and have it repaired and work one extra hour or maybe two and make more money at work then what it would cost to pay someone to fix your saw for you. So how much do you really save when you spend several weekends working on the chainsaw instead of cutting firewood? If you can't fix it, then get rid of it and buy another one. Walmart and Lowes sold Poulans for $150 - and that was with a spare chain, a file kit and a tool kit and a carrying case! Originally Posted by Claw Hammer Not one of you spoke a word about cleaning the fuel filter and not one of you spoke a word about doing a compression test. Not one of you ever thought to take it to a repair shop and pay a couple of dollars to a trained service tech that could have probably repaired it for less then $20! Penny wise and dollar foolish. If you had a job, you could take the chainsaw to a shop and have it repaired and work one extra hour or maybe two and make more money at work then what it would cost to pay someone to fix your saw for you. So how much do you really save when you spend several weekends working on the chainsaw instead of cutting firewood? If you can't fix it, then get rid of it and buy another one. Walmart and Lowes sold Poulans for $150 - and that was with a spare chain, a file kit and a tool kit and a carrying case! Apparently you looked at one of the posts concerning a chainsaw problem not carburetor adjustment. The problem with this thread it was HIJACKED FOUR TIMES. I violated my own rule of not posting to a hijacked thread. My post concerned the carburetor adjustment post. If I had caught the HIJACK earlier, I would have moved it to a new thread. Hijacking threads creates confusion. Cheese, I am not arguing with you I am just relaying the info that was given directly to me from the company I work for.I have been adjusting the carbs that way as they requested and have actually seen a drop in recalls.Once again this is mostly on newer products 2008+.( I think the Instructor is playing it safe by having us adjust it a little on the rich side) Airman, Thanks for the links. Claw hammer,I am a 2 cyl technician for a major corporation been doing this type of work for about 4 years our labor rate is a little more than twice what you mentioned it would take to repair it. Yes, however at times it would be best to buy a new one,but these forums are for those that are trying to help each other out with what they know. Normally I would do this in a private message, but since you publicly insulted everyone on this thread, I will state my position publicly as well. Claw hammer, if you go buy new equipment every time it needs a $20 service, let me haul off your trash for you. That would be what I call penny wise and dollar foolish; spending money on a replacement rather than fixing it yourself. That...by the way... is what this site is about, and what the recent posters asked for (advice about adjusting carbs). Why would we suggest cleaning a fuel filter? Modern fuel filters are not meant to be cleaned, they are meant to be replaced. Also, the original poster never replied to the first advice given, which did indicate there could be internal damage. The rest of the replies were to other members with other questions about adjusting carbs. Finally, what gives you the right to assume the poster is too cheap to pay for a repair or doesn't have a job? You are a disservice to this forum and we would appreciate it if you kept your opinion to yourself. Members who come to this site seeking advice shouldn't have to put up with your type of replies. Thank you and have a nice day. gh0st, I'm not arguing either...it's all good. I also feel that 2 turns out is very possibly too rich, which is definitely better than too lean, but not good either. It may reduce call backs, but if it's too rich it will contribute to carbon buildup, which as you know causes clogged exhausts and sometimes cylinder scoring when pieces break loose. I fine tune the H screw for every engine, not just a set number of turns out. I do hit optimum, then go a hair on the rich side though, for good measure. Call backs on equipment I adjusted are rare. Originally Posted by cheese Normally I would do this in a private message, but since you publicly insulted everyone on this thread, I will state my position publicly as well. Claw hammer, if you go buy new equipment every time it needs a $20 service, let me haul off your trash for you. That would be what I call penny wise and dollar foolish; spending money on a replacement rather than fixing it yourself. That...by the way... is what this site is about, and what the recent posters asked for (advice about adjusting carbs). Why would we suggest cleaning a fuel filter? Modern fuel filters are not meant to be cleaned, they are meant to be replaced. Also, the original poster never replied to the first advice given, which did indicate there could be internal damage. The rest of the replies were to other members with other questions about adjusting carbs. Finally, what gives you the right to assume the poster is too cheap to pay for a repair or doesn't have a job? You are a disservice to this forum and we would appreciate it if you kept your opinion to yourself. Members who come to this site seeking advice shouldn't have to put up with your type of replies. Thank you and have a nice day. gh0st, I'm not arguing either...it's all good. I also feel that 2 turns out is very possibly too rich, which is definitely better than too lean, but not good either. It may reduce call backs, but if it's too rich it will contribute to carbon buildup, which as you know causes clogged exhausts and sometimes cylinder scoring when pieces break loose. I fine tune the H screw for every engine, not just a set number of turns out. I do hit optimum, then go a hair on the rich side though, for good measure. Call backs on equipment I adjusted are rare. Cheese I'm not sure if ClawHammer needed to be banned unless he did something elsewhere, but that said he seemed to miss the point of the forum as you clearly said. I've tried numerous things with my Poulan Pro 4318 AVX except the two full turns as a start setting to get the saw started. I'll give that a shot tomorrow. May be too late anyhow as yesterday I did a compression test and got 60psi dry and 130psi wet, .... my little green Poulan 16 got 140 in two pulls and runs like a champ. More hours on it than the Pro I might add. My conclusion is it's ring time. I got a ring from a local Poulan dealer here who assured me that 1) the Pro does not have a two-year warranty as indicated elsewhere, and 2) that he could not sell me a carb adjust tool and that Poulan sold same only to dealers. He also felt that 60 psi was plenty of compression for a chainsaw. I bought a ring from him and decided that I'll deal online with any other chainsaw issues on the basis that I don't need uninvited opinions and unhelpful dealers. Tune in tomorrow for the ongoing saga of the Poulan Pro that WON'T .... I didn't ban him. I don't know who did, one of the super mods I guess. He may have caused issues in another forum as well, or there may have been several complaints? I don't agree that 60 psi is good on any engine. 60 psi is only good if you want to plant flowers in it. That is why your saw won't start. Originally Posted by marbobj 60 psi is only good if you want to plant flowers in it. That is why your saw won't start. My direct experience with my two Poulan saws leads me to agree with you, and therefore disagree with the dealer who felt 60 was OK, ... as I said I'll deal elsewhere from now on. Ignorance has no place in the workplace. Beer 4U2 i have one pp4218av did the same thing loaned it out had the same problem check the return springs for the linkages that controles throat plates i'll bet one is broken that is what i found with mine even if you didn't loan it out it would have probably happend to you if that is the problem good luck in search of new spring for mine From the discription I think I read, they sound like insert bits or tools. They look like a torx bit with a hole in them. I found them in a local hdw. store in the bit asst cabinet along with the phillips, square, hex etc. Sid Originally Posted by arnold123 i have one pp4218av did the same thing loaned it out had the same problem check the return springs for the linkages that controles throat plates i'll bet one is broken that is what i found with mine even if you didn't loan it out it would have probably happend to you if that is the problem good luck in search of new spring for mine I know this is an old post but I am in the same situation. I dont know if the spring broke or if there was a locking mechanism that connects to the carb itself which is now. missing. There is a slot on the carb that looks as if something should go there to lock the spring. ???????? any help out there???? I'm not real familliar with the 4218,, But the Poulan website Poulan Pro - Poulan - Weed Eater - McCulloch - User Manuals has a parts look-up that may help you... Roger Originally Posted by hopkinsr2 I'm not real familliar with the 4218,, But the Poulan website Poulan Pro - Poulan - Weed Eater - McCulloch - User Manuals has a parts look-up that may help you... Roger Thanks for the reply however I think that the carbs on these things are so cheap that they don't even make repair parts for them. my problem is that the saw starts and runs with the choke out but revs and dies when you take choke off. Carb set 1 1/2 out on both needles. Hello dowjim1, Your carburetor needs to be taken apart and cleaned, possibly rebuilt, and check the condition of your fuel lines. I have a Poulan Pro 255 that would start ok but die immediately when I gave it gas, just like others have experienced. I tried removing the air filter since it was not very clean but that did not have any effect. I have owned the saw for about 15 years and admittedly did very little to maintain it because it always ran great. Once it started acting up this spring I followed the advice in this forum (which I should have done anyway a long time ago!); I bought a carberator kit, which was actually a whole new carb ($20). I also replaced the air filter, spark plug and fuel filter. When replacing the carb I noticed the fuel line had become brittle so I replaced that also. If you are going to the trouble of cleaning/rebuilding or replacing the carb, you should do the fuel line as well, as it was only a buck or 2. Tough job getting the fuel line through the gas tank housing... After I did all of that it starts on first or second pull and runs as good as new. No carb adjustments were required other than setting the idle. Less than $30 - 35 and I have a saw that runs as good as new. Good Luck i've been having a similar problem with my mac 3200.i cleaned and rebuilt the carb. and changed out the fuel lines/filter because they were falling apart. i can get it to start, but it stalls if i throttle up. i got it to get up to speed if i very gradually pulled the throttle. i noticed the gas flowing thru the primer bulb, but not the main intake line. could there still be a blockage or could it be a vacuum leak. thanks for any info on what else i can try. Did you try backing out the high speed screw a little? i just tried that, it kicked over then stalled again, it's probably out about 2-2 1/4 turns now. i don't see any fuel coming thru the line from the tank to carb. i just made sure the line from the carb. (throttle side) was going into the side of the pr. bulb marked in and the other line to the tank. is this correct? does the return line need to be submerged to work properly? Here's a trick I learned from running HPLC lines. Cut the line at an angle. ----------/--------------------- ............/ -------/------------------------ But make the angle longer (30 degrees) than pictured. The angle should be shallow enough to thread it through the hole with a little excess. Put the end cut through the hole and carefully pull it through with long needle nose pliers. Some tubing comes precut as shown above. The return line only has to barely enter the tank. Sounds like you have it routed correctly. Is the fuel filter stopped up? Hi, I realize this thread is very old, and the last reply was months ago, but I have something similar going on. My boss recently gave me a poulan pro 295 20 saw, and the clutch cover/chain brake was melted from the exhaust. He said it's the second time it happened so he wanted to get rid of it. I figured I could weld an exhaust shield on it to keep it from happening again (I think there was one there originally and it broke off). So I did that and replaced the clutch cover/chain brake it was like $20. The fuel line was ripped so I replaced it, and the carb kit was only $4 so figured I'd do it as well so it was all running good. The carb was VERY simple, one solid, machined pieced of aluminum with a cap on each side. I replaced the gaskets and cleaned it up (wasn't really dirty anyway) and put it all together, still need to replace the air filter. So go to start it and it fires up eventually but doesn't stay running. I decide to start messing with the two screws (I assumed one was low one was high). Got it to start right up and idle fine but under gas it'd die. Eventually got it to where it's running good just by screwing with it. I just wanted to say thanks for the information in this thread because I'm sure I don't have it adjusted perfect so when I run it again I can follow the steps above to properly adjust it. So for about $25 I have a decent saw...
Related Posts:
Mcculloch 3200 chainsaw wont start
McCulloch 3200 Chainsaw won't start....I've cleaned carburator, changed all fuel lines, replaced primer bulb, and verified it has a spark, also, replaced plug. Machine looks new, piston is in exce...
Mtd yardman rototiller starts but wont run
MTD Yardman rototiller starts but won't runWe just got a used 5.5 hp MTD Yardman rototiller. model # 21A-394-401 Serial # 1C150k50447 with a Brigg's and Stratton engine #110402 0161 E1 It had bee...
Poulan pro 295 chainsaw wont start
poulan pro 295 chainsaw won't startI was trying to cut some wood the other day and I got the saw to start, it ran for about 30 seconds and then died. Sounded like it ran out of gas, but was full o...
Poulan pro ppb300 gas trimmer stops running
Poulan Pro PPB300 gas trimmer stops runningI have a Poulan Pro PPB300 gas trimmer (31cc edger/weed-eater). I have not used it very much so I am pretty frustrated with it not working now. (My Poula...
Poulan chain saw wont start
Poulan chain saw won't startI have a 42 cc poulan that i just can't get to start. It has brand new gas, i've removed the spark plug and it is sparking very well. But if i put the plug back in it...